When a pod of Orcas suddenly emerges in the ship's wake, the engines fall silent. Passengers snap a flurry of photos and then the Spirit of Endeavour, Cruise West's 102-passenger ship, resumes making its way across Glacier Bay. The process repeats itself again and again: stopping for a humpback whale, a soaring eagle, grizzlies patrolling the shoreline. In other circumstances the stop-and-go action might be annoying; here, it's awe-inspiring.
So goes another day of cruising the Inside Passage, the spectacular labyrinth of deep channels that twist around the thickly forested islands, jagged mountains and ice-blue glaciers of southeast Alaska. There is simply no other cruise like it. Not surprisingly, almost a million people sail to Alaska every year. Unless you have a seaplane handy, there's no other way to see this rugged, roadless coastline.
From May to September, dozens of ships ply these waters every week. Most make stops in a handful of major ports—Ketchikan, Sitka, Juneau. The easiest way to avoid the inevitable crowds is on a small ship, which can travel up narrow channels and make call at remote ports that the larger ships can't reach. If you prefer the array of options offered by big vessels, travel at the beginning of the season (May) or the end (September) to skip the crowds. In ports, choose active excursions to get more elbow room—for example, take the Deer Mountain Trail, just a half mile from Ketchikan's town center, to see old-growth forest and high alpine country.
Most sailings last a week and begin and end in the same city, usually Vancouver, B.C., sometimes Seattle or San Francisco. The type of experience you'll have depends on the boat. We've outlined the various options, from the resort-like big ships to a mahogany-paneled yacht with six staterooms, as well as a traditional Inside Passage cruise augmented by a train tour of Alaska's interior. For each category we present a sample cruise, only one of many. So what's keeping you? If you move fast, you might even squeeze in a September sailing.
THE CLASSIC BIG SHIPS
Cruise lines such as Carnival, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity make up the large-ship category. These vessels carry an average of 2,000-plus passengers and have vast dining rooms, casinos, gyms and spas. There are dozens of daily activities onboard, not to mention multiple swimming pools, multihole putting greens, climbing walls and extensive kids' programs. And when the ship stops at a port, there's a substantial menu of sightseeing excursions. Why sail on one of these giants? Start with price. With so many cabins to fill, discounting is rampant. The other reason is family. If you're traveling with young children, teenagers or elderly parents, the big ships keep everyone happy—they're floating entertainment palaces.
THE CRUISE: The 7-night Northbound Alaska Cruise on Celebrity Millennium from Vancouver, B.C., to Seward, calling at such classic Inside Passage ports as Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway. You'll also get to see Hubbard Glacier.
BEST SHORE EXCURSION: "Mendenhall Glacier: Ice Age by Helicopter," a 2-hour helicopter trip ($295 per person) that lands on the glacier for a short walking tour.
INFO: Sails May 14, 2010; 800-437-3111; celebrity.com; from $549*
THE BIG SHIPS WITH ALASKAN LODGES
Both Princess and Holland America have big ships with itineraries that take the Alaska experience several steps beyond a classic cruise. The trips are billed as cruise/land vacations and include stays in the cruise lines' own wilderness lodges, as well as overland trips by train (sightseeing from a domed observation car) or motorcoach. Going to ground gives passengers access to places like Anchorage, Fairbanks and Denali National Park—none of which you'll see on an Inside Passage cruise. Not surprisingly, these tend to be longer trips of 12 days or more.
THE CRUISE: The 12-day southbound excursion on Holland America's MS Ryndam starts with a 5-day overland tour by domed rail car. The trip goes from Fairbanks to Denali National Park then on to Anchorage. A luxury motor coach makes the final jump to Seward, where you board the ship for an Inside Passage cruise to Vancouver, visiting Glacier Bay National Park, with stops in Haines, Juneau and Ketchikan.
BEST SHORE EXCURSION: The "Midnight Sun Dinner & River Raft Float Trip‚" ($169) from Fairbanks shows off Alaska's wild side on the Chena River—as well as the endless summer daylight.
INFO: Begins May 12, 2010; 800-426-0327; hollandamerica.com; from $1,249
THE SMALL EXPLORATION SHIPS
Lindblad and Cruise West are the two main lines sailing expedition-style ships that accommodate around 100 passengers. While these trips tend to be pricier, they offer a more casual and intimate tour of the Inside Passage. Instead of churning northward up broad shipping lanes, the captains steer these smaller ships up meandering channels just a few hundred feet wide. Expect frequent stops for wildlife viewing. Ports of call may include such remote fishing villages as Petersburg or Metlakatla, inaccessible to big boats. Adventure lovers thrill to up-close experiences like a Zodiac excursion skirts the edges of glaciers.
THE CRUISE: An 8-day roundtrip cruise from Juneau on Cruise West's Spirit of Endeavour, calling at ports such as Petersburg, Wrangle and Sitka. Highlights include the humpback whales in Frederick Sound and cliffside rookeries in Glacier Bay National Park, where countless murrelets, puffins and other seabirds nest.
BEST SHORE EXCURSION: "Ketchikan Kayaking Adventure" ($94 per person) gets you out on the waters of Tongass Narrows and along the shoreline where you can see bald eagles, spawning salmon and occasionally orcas.
INFO: Sails May 19, 2010; 888-851-8133; cruisewest.com; from $4,199
THE SMALL LUXURY YACHTS
Yachts let you see Alaska in style. These small boats can anchor in impossibly beautiful coves, avoiding the busy ports that welcome the seagoing behemoths. American Safari Cruises is one of many companies operating a fleet of small ships. Its 22-passenger Safari Quest is expedition worthy but still has doting service. All Aboard Yacht Charters offers a somewhat less expensive option. Their single craft, the 87-foot Discovery, was originally built for William Morris in 1931. It has teak decks, mahogany paneling, six private staterooms, a dining salon, a covered fantail lounge and viewing decks. For shore excursions there are four sea kayaks, a rowing skiff and two Boston whalers.
THE CRUISE: The 8-day cruise from Ketchikan to Juneau on All Aboard Yacht Charters' Discovery leaves plenty of time for wildlife viewing. You'll see the glaciers in Tracy Arm and anchor overnight in small harbors.
BEST SHORE EXCURSION: A visit to the Anan Creek Bear Observatory to see bears feeding on salmon. (All shore excursions are included in the price.)
INFO: Sails May 20, 2010; 800-767-1024; alaskacharters.com; from $3,995
THE WEATHER UP THERE
During Alaska's cruise season (May–September), temperatures can range from daytime highs in the 70s to near freezing at night. It can also rain at any time. So pack some versatile layers, such as Gore-Tex jackets and fleece sweaters. And when you head out on an excursion, remember to bring a daypack, insect repellent and sunglasses. Even when it's not sunny, it's plenty bright this far north.
*Prices are per person, double occupancy; additional fees and taxes apply.
Let RCI book your next cruise. To learn more about RCI's cruising options, visit cruiserci.com or call 877-RCI-BOAT (877-724-2628).
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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