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Destination: Along Comes Vero Beach
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This Florida beach town charms visitors with an all-natural, laid-back beauty
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BY TERRY WARD
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The Vero Beach Museum of Art; kayak tour on the St. Sebastian River, home to kingfishers and manatees.
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Just when you’re sure you’ve seen all that Florida’s sandspun shores have to offer, along comes Vero Beach. Located on a lush stretch of Atlantic coastline, 140 miles north of Miami and just over two hours southeast of Orlando, this quirky, sophisticated town is often unfairly overlooked. But not everyone misses its charms. Sea turtles, snowbirds and surfers alike are lured by its balance of nature, culture and healthy living—a rare combination for a beach town.
From November through April, the population of Vero Beach booms with part-time residents who flock here from out of state and abroad for the fine winter weather. The young, trendy set from Miami and Fort Lauderdale is discovering the town, too, for weekend escapes from busy South Florida. But at its heart, Vero Beach remains a kicked-back natural beauty.
The scattering of hotels and condos here rarely rises above a few stories. And mixed in with the waterfront mansions are original Florida bungalows that look like places where Hemingway might have lived. Follow a hand-painted sign to a riverfront fish market or a streetside stall with fresh coconuts for sale—in Vero Beach, you never know what you’ll find.
LIFE'S A BEACH
Vero’s best-loved public beach is South Beach Park, at the end of the 17th Street Bridge. This pretty stretch of sand is nothing like the building-lined Miami–area beach with the similar name. The parking lot overflows on warm sunny days, but you’ll find plenty of room on the beach once you move beyond the boardwalk lined with sea-grape bushes.
On another day, it’s worth the 25-minute drive north to see Sebastian Inlet State Park (9700 S. State Rd. A1A; floridastateparks.org; $8/vehicle), where anglers crowd a long pier to fish, and board riders find one of the East Coast’s finest surfing spots. The wild beach here is backed by dunes thick with native plants.
Between these two parks is the 248-acre Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge (fws.gov/archiecarr), where some 20,000 sea turtles lumber onto the beach each year to nest. (In June and July, rangers take visitors on nighttime walks to watch the turtles laying their eggs.)
“X” MARKS THE SPOTS
In 1715, a fleet of Spanish galleons loaded with untold riches was en route from Havana to Spain when the ships were sunk by a hurricane just off Vero Beach (hence the area’s nickname, the Treasure Coast). Salvage divers still ply the waters here while beachcombers sweep the sands with metal detectors, hoping to get lucky.
As it happens, the chance of finding something is temptingly real. The oceanfront McLarty State Treasure Museum (13180 N. Hwy. A1A; 772-589-2147; $2) sits on the site of the wrecks’ survivors’ camp, and displays weapons, belt buckles and pieces of eight (Spanish silver coins) from the 1715 fleet. But the most interesting exhibit is a binder at the welcome desk brimming with news of recent finds. “When the Spanish made jewelry, they really packed it in,” says docent Myrna Lisevic, pointing to a 2007 newspaper clipping about a local woman who found a 69-carat emerald while combing the beach for sharks’ teeth.
That emerald—along with many other treasures recovered from Florida wrecks—is nearby at Mel Fisher’s Treasure Museum (1322 U.S. Hwy. 1; 772-589-9875; melfisher.com; $6.50). Check out the kid-friendly pirate displays and take turns lifting an authentic Spanish gold bar.
Treasures of a different kind are displayed at the Vero Beach Museum of Art (3001 Riverside Park Dr.; 772-231-0707; vbmuseum.org; free). The permanent collection is mostly early-20th-century American works, while visiting exhibits often tie in marine and nautical themes.
LOCAL PRODUCE
“Where’s the best place to get sweet potatoes to cook for him?” a customer with a lab pup under her arm asks an organic farmer at the Saturday–morning Farmers’ Market OceanSide Vero Beach (2901 Ocean Dr.; 772-532-2455; farmersmarketoceanside.com). It’s set across from an oceanfront park, and live music fills the air as people sample everything from Indian River grapefruits and orange-blossom honey to edible organic flowers and smoked fish dip.
A short stroll away is the Laughing Dog Gallery (2910 Cardinal Dr.; 772-234-6711; thelaughingdoggallery.com), whose exquisite objects (hourglasses, jewelry, chandeliers) are created exclusively by American artisans. Stop by Stephen Bonanno Sandals (946 Beachland Blvd.; 772-234-8377; stephenbonanno.com) for handmade footwear encrusted with shells and beads. Or drive across the bridge to the mainland’s revitalized historic district along 14th Avenue, where you’ll find paintings, one-of-a-kind clothing and jewelry by local artists at Tulaa Gallery & Boutique (2036 14th Ave.; 772-778-8830; no website) and vintage teapots at Tea & Chi (2044 14th Ave.; 772-563-0620; teaandchi.com).
INTO THE WILD
“I feel like a nature-show host on a kayak whenever I go out on a trip,” says Kristen Beck of Kayaks, Etc. (2628 U.S. Hwy. 1; 772-202-0220; kayaksetc.com; $35, $10 for kids). Wearing a leather safari hat jauntily embellished with an osprey feather, she leads a 2½-hour paddle around Vero Beach’s watery wonders. The Indian River Lagoon, between Vero Beach and the mainland, is North America’s most diverse estuary—home to 700 species of fish, 300-plus species of birds and a third of the nation’s endangered manatees.
Beck also offers a tour along the St. Sebastian River (a few minutes from the beach), where palms curve from the banks, kingfishers dive and manatees bob to the surface around you. You’re practically guaranteed to spot alligators. (“They’re hunted for barbecues; they don’t want anything to do with us,” assures Beck.) The waterway has been on nautical charts since the 1500s, when Spanish sailors filled their casks with drinking water here. Wild descendants of the hogs they brought with them can be heard snuffling through the surrounding forest. “None of our animals are animatronic,” says Beck. “Welcome to the real Florida.”
EAT
THE LEMON TREE
Crowds line up on weekend mornings
at this cheerful, diner-style restaurant
on Vero Beach’s main drag. Try the fresh
croissants. 3125 Ocean Dr.; 772-231-
0858; breakfast for two, $22*
OCEAN GRILL
This eclectic restaurant (decor includes
Tiffany lamps, fishing buoys and a stuffed
sailfish) hovers atop stilts, just a salt spray
from the ocean. Arrive early for a window
table and watch sunset streak the sea
purple while you dine on chilled stone-crab
claws, snapper and steak. 1050 Sexton
Plaza; 772-231-5409; dinner for two, $90
COBALT
The Vero Beach Hotel’s fine-dining
restaurant favors subtle Low Country
takes on Florida fare. Think rock shrimp
andouille Benedict or Berkshire pork belly
with pickled green tomatoes. 3500 Ocean
Dr.; 772-231-5666; dinner for two, $110
KATA BY SAKE
A contemporary pan-Asian restaurant
in the historic downtown. 1306 20th St.;
772-564-8883; dinner for two, $35
CAPT. HIRAM'S SANDBAR
Colorful stools rise from a sandy floor and
boat drinks abound at this open-air bar
and restaurant on the Indian River. Kids
play on the beach while parents channel
Jimmy Buffet at tables inside an old boat.
1580 U.S. Hwy. 1, Sebastian; 772-589-
4345; lunch for two, $25
*Prices cover a meal for two
without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in and around Vero Beach include:
DRIFTWOOD INN RESORT
This charming historic resort, constructed
out of driftwood and material from
sunken ships, is near a quiet beach.
It has outdoor heated pools and an
open-air restaurant. 3150 Ocean Dr.
Member Reviews:
“Live music at the pool.”
“You can barbecue right near the beach
at the resort.”
“It was nice to have free wireless Internet
access in each unit.”
“We loved being right on the beach
and within walking distance of shops,
restaurants and pastries.”
DISNEY’S VERO BEACH RESORT
Mickey is a familiar face at this Disney-
themed beachside resort. Bring the kids
and take your choice of splashing around
in the pool or nearby waves. It’s a doable
day trip to Walt Disney World® Resort in
Orlando. 9250 Island Grove Terrace
Member Reviews:
“They even have a Disney character
breakfast.”
“Very secluded area of Vero Beach.”
“This area is known for surfing.”
“Drive into downtown Vero Beach for
nice little bistros.”
THE REEF OCEAN RESORT
Walk to Vero Beach restaurants, theaters
and boutiques or simply hang out on the
2½ acres of prime oceanfront property,
picnicking, playing basketball and
sunning on the sand. 3450 Ocean Dr.
Member Reviews:
“Ample and well-maintained golf courses,
open to the public.”
“A very quiet resort that is popular with
the 45+ crowd.”
“Loved the McLarty Museum.”
OYSTER POINTE
Just 20 minutes up the coast from Vero
Beach, this is an ideal spot to explore the
Indian River and nearby islands by boat
or kayak. Return to the resort to relax in
the Jacuzzi and fire up the barbecue.
1570 U.S. Hwy. 1, Sebastian
Member Reviews:
“If you like to fish this would be your
paradise; 15-foot boats rent for $50/week.”
“Patios and balconies are large and
inviting.”
“Visit the Environmental Learning
Center—about 15 minutes south.”
“The highlight of the trip was a kayak
tour of Thousand Islands.”
For more information, including more
member reviews, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
VERO BEACH HOTEL & SPA
This 113-room oceanfront Kimpton
property is Vero Beach’s most
sophisticated hotel. 3500 Ocean Dr.;
866-602-8376; verobeachhotelandspa.com;
doubles from $139 per night
ISLANDER INN
The 16 bright, simple rooms at this
Old Florida throwback surround a
courtyard with a pool and barbecue
grills. The beach is across the street.
3101 Ocean Dr.; 772-231-4431;
islanderinnvero.com; doubles from
$79 per night
COSTA D’ESTE BEACH RESORT
Gloria Estefan’s 94-room hotel conjures
up circa-1960s Miami Beach. Oriente
restaurant does delicious Cuban–fusion
fare in sexy, lights-low surrounds (there’s
even a cocktail called “The Rhythm Is
Gonna Get You”). 3244 Ocean Dr.;
772-410-0080; costadeste.com;
oceanfront doubles from $135 per night
CARIBBEAN COURT BOUTIQUE HOTEL
A lovely, 18-suite property across from the
beach and furnished with antiques.
It’s a short drive north to the Ocean Drive retail
and restaurant strip. 1601 Ocean Dr.;
772-231-7211; thecaribbeancourt.com;
doubles from $109 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Fall 2010 Issue
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Photos: Mel Fisher's Treasures; Indian River County Chamber of Commerce
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