A dramatic barrage of crimson, yellow and orange signals the arrival of autumn in the Laurentian Mountains, just north of Montreal. Bright blue lakes reflect chalet roofs, silver church steeples rise above European-style villages and maples paint the hillsides. In winter, this is ski country; in summer, it’s a refuge from city heat. But fall, when crisp mornings give way to sun-warmed afternoons, is the ideal time to explore these modest mountains (few top 2,500 feet). Ditch the car and take the slow route, by bicycle, through the forested hills, ducking in and out of artsy villages. But beware the multitude of cozy restaurants that tempt riders with specialties like quail confit, wild mushroom tagliatelle and desserts sweetened with local maple syrup.
This August saw the completion of the Route Verte, or Green Road, a trail network linking 2,700 miles of bike paths across the province of Quebec. One of the most scenic stretches is the P’tit Train du Nord (“little train of the north”), which begins just north of Montreal in Saint-Jérôme and winds 120 miles through the heart of the Laurentians. Built over an abandoned 1920s railway line, this hard-packed gravel route provides a gentle workout—luckily for cyclists, trains can’t handle a grade of more than 3 percent.
While the trail is car-free, much of it runs parallel to the highway, allowing for more than 20 vehicle access points with parking. A dozen rental outfits line the route, so planning an impromptu afternoon ride is a snap. For longer outings, custom shuttles such as Autobus du Parc Linéaire provide bikes and will drop your bags at an inn along the way (450-569-5596; transportduparclineaire.com). Some Laurentian taxis carry bike racks to rescue weary cyclists.
THE BASICS
Pick up information and maps at the Porte du Nord visitor center (Exit 51 on Highway 15), or contact Laurentian Tourism (450-224-7007; laurentians.com). The most accessible—and best—stretch of the P’tit Train route starts at Mont-Rolland and meanders 35 miles northwest to the ski resort of Mont-Tremblant. On a multiday trip, there’s plenty to do off the bike—canoeing, rock climbing, gallery browsing and more. And on the route, the next town or trailside café is never far away.
GETTING STARTED
From Montreal, drive 45 minutes to Saint-Sauveur-des-Monts, an Alpine village near the bike path. Here old wood and stone houses and stores have been reborn as boutiques and terraced bistros, where you can soak up some sun over maplewood-fired pizza or Belgian-style mussels and fries. Before leaving, load your daypack with smoked salmon and Quebec cheeses from grocer Chez Bernard. Then drive four miles to Mont-Rolland, where you can access the path.
If you want, warm up with a quick hike at the town’s Parc de la Rivière Doncaster, then pick up rental bikes and a snack at the Café de la Gare, one of several restored railway stations enjoying second lives as everything from info centers to art studios. The route follows the Rivière du Nord through wildflower fields and spruce forest and past lakes surrounded by fieldstone cottages.
TAKE A BREATHER
After a gradual 10-mile climb you’ll ride into Val-David, a rural arts community. Lock up the bike and browse the studios of the village’s many potters, painters and glass blowers. The colorful Maison du Village gallery showcases local talent right on the main road.
Rock climbers might want to check out Val-David’s other claim to fame. In nearby Parc Dufresne, granite crags offer challenging routes for everyone from first timers to experts. Half-day lessons at Passe Montagne teach the basics of top-roping outdoors, but you’ll need to book in advance (800-465-2123; passemontagne.com; from $47).
ALONG THE WAY
Moving on, the bike route skirts the shore of Lac des Sables through Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts. Most of the people you’ll meet on the trail will be French Canadians or avid cyclists from France and Britain, where vacationing on long bicycle routes is a tradition. Even though Quebec’s official language is French, almost everyone speaks English, and the mood on the trail is mellow, so it’s easy to strike up a conversation.
The route meanders on for some 20 miles, through hamlets with names like Saint-Faustin-Lac-Carré and Ivry-sur-le-Lac, until it reaches Saint-Jovite. Shops lining the single main street sell Quebec antiques and folk art, fine lingerie and natural body-care products at Savonnerie Sensoriel. In the town’s refurbished train station, Antipasto serves up hearty Italian pasta dishes and cappuccinos.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED
From Saint-Jovite, it’s just a 5½-mile pedal to Mont-Tremblant, an Alpine resort town filled with mansard roofs and dormers and cobblestone pedestrian-only streets (tremblant.ca). As the Laurentians’ premier ski resort (consistently voted No. 1 in Eastern North America by Ski Magazine), this European-styled village is surrounded by big-name hotels like Hilton and Fairmont.
At any time of year, Mont-Tremblant is in après-ski mode. Among its many restaurants, the Microbrasserie La Diable serves refined pub meals on a patio, no less, and pours an excellent array of beers including a wheat ale flavored with coriander, ginger and orange. Even when there’s no snow on the ground you can try the traditional treat known as tire sur la neige at the Sugar Shack, just outside Mont-Tremblant. Warm maple syrup is poured onto fresh snow (actually, shaved ice in a barrel), where it cools to a taffy-like consistency (877-688-2101; tremblant-sugar-shack.com).
JUST REWARDS
After all that bike time, relax on a gondola ride up to Tremblant’s 3,175-foot peak. At the top, autumn’s blaze of color unfolds in every direction, punctuated by chiseled mountains and steely blue lakes. The hike back down takes just a few hours. Still need some activity? Nearby Mont-
Tremblant Park offers 583 square miles of unspoiled wilderness, with six rivers and 405 lakes. You can even get there by bike in less than an hour (819-688-2281; sepaq.com).
By now you’ve really earned some pampering. Soothe your sore muscles in a Finnish sauna or Norwegian steam bath at the Nordic-style Spa la Scandinave, just outside Mont-Tremblant (819-425-5524; scandinave.com; baths $39). What better way to take in the fall colors than from beneath a warm, outdoor thermal waterfall followed by a cooling plunge in the tree-lined Diable River?
EAT
MAESTRO
Contemporary Italian paired with an
extensive wine list; dinner only. 339
Rue Principale, Saint-Sauveur; 450-
227-2999; dinner for two, $110
ANTIPASTO
This former railway station is a good
stop for pasta, salads and pizza. 855
Rue Ouimet, Saint-Jovite; 819-425-
7580; dinner for two, $45
L’EAU à LA BOUCHE
Chef Anne Desjardins prepares Quebec
specialties like foie gras and wild
mushrooms, snow crab and a sampling
of the province’s more than 300
cheeses. 3003 Sainte-Adèle Blvd.,
Sainte-Adèle; 450-229-2991; lunch
for two, $45; dinner, $120
BISTRO à CHAMPLAIN
A lakeside 1864 general store
converted into a fine French dinner
restaurant, a 20-minute drive east of
Val-David. 75 Chemin Masson, Sainte-
Marguerite; 450-228-4988; dinner for
two, $140
LE CHEVAL DE JADE
French cuisine served in a charming
old house. Chef Olivier Tati is a Maître
Canardier, a “duck specialist” certified
in France. 688 Rue de Saint-Jovite,
Mont-Tremblant; 819-425-5233;
dinner for two, $110
MICROBRASSERIE LA DIABLE
Microbrewery serving burgers, ribs and
pasta in the heart of the village. 117
Chemin Kandahar, Mont-Tremblant;
819-681-4546; dinner for two, $40
Prices are converted into U.S. dollars, and cover a
meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN THE LAURENTIANS INCLUDE:
CLUB INTRA WEST — Tremblant
CLUB GEOPREMIERE AT LAC MORENCY
GEO GROUP AT LAC MORENCY
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:
L’EAU à LA BOUCHE
Luxury country-style Relais & Chateaux inn,
with wonderful mountain views and a Nordic
spa, three miles off the bike path from
Mont-Rolland. Sainte-Adèle; 888-828-2991;
leaualabouche.com; doubles from $326
CHATEAU BEAUVALLON
Tranquil all-suites hotel just a short drive or
cycle from town. Mont-Tremblant;
888-681-6611; chateaubeauvallon.com;
doubles from $255
LA BELLE AU BOIS DORMANT
A log cabin B&B in the forest, decorated
with rustic country furniture. Mont-Tremblant;
819-425-1331; belleauboisdormant.com;
doubles from $122
GRAY ROCKS
Iconic, century-old hotel on the shores of
Lac Ouimet, in a classic Laurentian rambling
chateau style. Mont-Tremblant;
800-567-6767; grayrocks.com;
doubles from $152
HOTEL QUINTESSENCE
A boutique hotel on Lac Tremblant. The 30
luxury suites are as big as 1,200 square feet.
Mont-Tremblant; 866-425-3400;
hotelquintessence.com; doubles from $378