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Destination: Hilton Head Forever
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There's a reason why people return to this South Carolina barrier island. A lot of reasons, actually
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BY MELISSA BIGNER
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The Sea Pines Resort has been an island retreat on Hilton Head for more than 50 years.
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It's early evening on the northern tip of South Carolina's Hilton Head Island. The parking lot at Hudson's on the Docks is rimmed with marsh reeds, washed up after an uncommonly high tide on Skull Creek. Weathered shrimp boats strain, groan and creak against their lines.
"Daddy?" calls a little girl trailing her father toward the seafood dive. "What's that smell?" "It's the saltwater, honey," he answers."It's the smell of being outside." "So," she says, "it's a good smell!"
That's Hilton Head Island in a nutshell: Vacationing families connecting—via scents, scenery and seafood—with the second-largest barrier island on the East Coast. And while most of the 2.5 million annual visitors tend to come during warmer months, they miss out on what might be the island's best time of year. After Labor Day and before spring break, the humidity drops, traffic trickles off, crowds thin and temperatures average in the 60s. Folks toss on fleece pullovers to walk the 12 miles of beaches; ride fat-tired, single-speed cruisers along epic bike paths; and hunker down at cozy oyster roasts. Sound good? Grab the Lowcountry winter uniform—flip-flops, khakis and light sweater—and come on out to Hilton Head.
GET YOUR BEARINGS
Hilton Head is a 45-mile drive north from Savannah, GA, and 110 miles south of Charleston, SC. In the early 16th century, the French and Spanish attempted to settle this fertile land. Its live-oak forests and rich soil made it an agrarian paradise; the many waterways facilitated shipping; and the proximity to the Eastern seaboard made it a prime outpost. But local tribes didn't entirely welcome those early visitors. Finally, in 1663 British sea captain William Hilton successfully claimed the island for England, giving plantation life its start.
During colonial times, farmers with British land grants used enslaved laborers to raise crops of rice, cotton and indigo. During the Civil War, Union forces established forts on the remote island and founded Mitchelville, a haven for freed slaves. At the war's end, former slaves were given land throughout the sparsely populated island. They farmed and fished in isolation here until the 1950s, when a new bridge connected Hilton Head to the mainland—and Charles Fraser dreamed up the groundbreaking Sea Pines resort.
Sea Pines was founded in 1956 as the first "eco-friendly" resort community in the United States. Fraser's then-novel idea was to preserve the area's flora and fauna and integrate vacationers (and golfers) into the land with as little intrusion as possible. That meant sculpting large communities of houses, hotels and condos; capping building height at the natural tree line; curving roads around centuries-old oaks; regulating building colors to blend into the landscape; burying power lines and restricting commercial signage; and limiting beachfront construction on the dunes.
Today, Hilton Head Island is a funky mix. Historical sites are scattered among the resort-community-and-golf-course descendants of Sea Pines; hotels butt up against huge swaths of preserved land, while shopping and dining strips flood the interior. A four-lane road encircles the island, with hideaway developments shooting off it like spokes. And here and there, humble vegetable plots thrive next to multimillion-dollar digs and modest, slouchy cottages alike.
HOW TO TACKLE THE ISLAND
"This is the most relaxing vacation I've had with my family—ever," says a woman making her way across Broad Creek by kayak. "It's the first time we've ever just chilled out, relaxing on the beach, me reading and the kids shelling, and all of us trying new things."
To score that same experience, you'll need a strategy. Hilton Head has 250-plus restaurants and two dozen golf courses, so it's crucial to narrow your field of vacation vision. For a family-flavored getaway (the island's specialty), first pick a place to stay. If you're flying in, look for flights to the Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport. And on your way to the island, stock up at the Publix in neighboring Bluffton (80 Baylor Dr.) to avoid the weekend crowds at island grocery stores.
Next, come up with your dream menu of outdoor activities. Hotels and resorts offer daily tours; ask for schedules when you check in. Or try Outside Hilton Head (outsidehiltonhead.com) for kayaking, boating, fishing and dolphin-cruising options. If you’re not staying at a resort with beach access, you can hit the sand at several public access points. The most popular one is Coligny Beach Park, with ample parking and a brand-new area with restrooms, showers and more.
As for getting around, either bring your own bicycles or rent from Hilton Head Bicycle Co. (hiltonheadbicycle.com; from $27 weekly). And for the ultimate Lowcountry experience, don't miss exploring the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. This 605-acre wilderness oasis combines jungle-like expanses of native evergreen palms, live oaks and wax myrtles with lagoons populated by cranes and alligators. Powdery dirt roads traverse the gently sculpted site. Pick up a map at the info center hutch and head off by foot, bike or car—or on horseback. For a trail ride, sign up with Lawton Stables (lawtonstableshhi.com).
TIME TRAVEL
To play Indiana Jones, check out the Indian Shell Ring in Sea Pines. More than 4,000 years ago, Native American settlers are believed to have piled discarded oyster shells in a circle to form low walls around their village, now in the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. And on the island's northern tip you'll find the remains of Fort Mitchel. This moat-lined earthen mound relic of the Civil War was uncovered in the 1970s when construction crews were clearing land for a new restaurant. Today the Old Fort Pub (65 Skull Creek Dr.; dinner for two, $90*) serves up high-end Lowcountry staples like crab cakes with green tomato, sweet pepper relish and stone ground grits. Patrons waiting for a table can head next door for a self-guided tour of the fort remains.
One of the most vibrant local groups is the Gullah, a distinct African-American community that has retained much of its African heritage. To learn more about the Gullah's role in Hilton Head history, head to the Coastal Discovery Museum (two locations: 70 Honey Horn Drive and 100 William Hilton Pkwy.; coastaldiscovery.org; donation requested), then polish off your schooling at Harbour Town with a walk to the top of the Harbour Town Lighthouse (harbourtownlighthouse.com; $3). Its walls display historic photos and illustrations detailing Hilton Head's path to the present.
RAINY DAYS EQUAL SHOPPING (AND SPA) DAYS
Though outdoor activities are the main draw on Hilton Head, don't worry if the skies cloud over and open up. Not only are there regular chains (Target, Old Navy, Cost Plus World Market) and discount stores (T.J. Maxx, Marshalls, Stein Mart, Off 5th), but there are also two huge factory outlet centers in nearby Bluffton, with everything from Abercrombie & Fitch and the Gap to Coach. For a souvenir of your visit, check out the handmade sweetgrass baskets sold at the Coastal Discovery Museum (above). "Sewn" from indigenous marsh grass and palmetto fronds, these sweet-smelling vessels were integral in plantation life; they've been made by Gullah descendants for centuries.
If the island's live oaks and Spanish moss haunt you, check out Ben Ham's immense black-and-white images of Lowcountry landscapes (benhamimages.com) at places like the Camellia Art Gallery (camelliaart.com). And for some indoor R&R, head to a spa. The island's crown jewel is the Westin chain's Heavenly Spa, where an indigo massage soothes her while a heated golf-ball massage loosens him up before hitting the links next time the sun shines.
HOME COOKING
If you don't feel like dining out, here's where to find ingredients to cook up some island favorites (and where to order out).
Benny Hudson Seafood
Seasonal catch, fresh off the boat.
175 Squire Pope Rd.; 843-682-3474
The Fresh Market
Gourmet groceries for the epicurean.
890 William Hilton Pkwy.; 843-842-8332
TJ's Take & Bake Pizza Co.
Pizza made to order with organic ingredients.
11 Palmetto Bay Rd.; 843-842-8253
EAT
PALMETTO BAY
SUNRISE CAFÉ
Tucked discreetly into the Palmetto
Bay marina, this breakfast joint is
where locals head for wake-up meals
of shrimp hash, pancakes and eggs
galore. 86 Helmsman Way;
843-686-3232; breakfast for
two, $20*
SIGNE'S HEAVEN BOUND
BAKERY & CAFÉ
Amid kooky décor, patrons gobble
up Signe's fresh salads (try the
chilled salmon), sandwiches,
Swedish cookies and devilish
desserts like Nutella pie. 93
Arrow Rd.; 843-785-9118;
lunch for two, $16
HUDSON'S ON THE DOCKS
A fishing fleet—the largest on the
island—brings in a daily bounty
(shrimp, scallops, crab and fish)
to this whitewashed cinder-block
building. The staff can even
arrange a Lowcountry oyster roast.
1 Hudson Rd.; 843-681-2772;
dinner for two, $42
AQUA GRILLE & LOUNGE
Fish tanks, waterfalls and fountains
decorate this swank new spot
overlooking the Atlantic. Come for
a drink (there's an extensive wine list)
and live jazz, or dress up for a
white-linen dinner of jambalaya or
shrimp and grits. 10 N. Forest Beach
Dr.; 843-341-3331; dinner for two,
$80
RED FISH
Caribbean-Southern fusion is the
name of the menu game here: Lobster
mac 'n' cheese is offered alongside
Boursin grits, jicama slaw, crab cakes
with chipotle aioli, and guava-orange
glazed ribs. 8 Archer Rd.;
843-686-3388; dinner for two, $70
WISEGUYS
RESTAURANT & BAR
Lamb lollipops, seared tuna sliders,
a crème brulée quartet and
champagne shots? Add "serious
cocktails" and you've got the island's
hippest new eatery-slash-watering-hole.
1513 Main St.; 843-842-8866; dinner
for two, $30
RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT
Just west of Hilton Head in Bluffton,
the Inn at Palmetto Bluff houses one
of the best restaurants in the area.
The kitchen favors nouveau
renditions of local fare like duck,
black grouper and farm-fresh
vegetables. The formal dining
room opens to a wide
Southern-style porch with its own,
more casual though plenty succulent
menu. 476 Mount Pelia Rd., Bluffton;
843-706-6542; dinner for two, $65
*Prices cover a meal for two, not
including drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS ON
HILTON HEAD INCLUDE:
CORAL REEF RESORT
PORT O'CALL
ISLAND LINKS BY
CORAL RESORTS
CORAL SANDS RESORT
For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI AFFILIATED
RESORTS:
HILTON OCEANFRONT RESORT
At this luxe resort kids 18 and under
stay free in guardians' rooms. The
whole family will enjoy the 10 miles
of lagoons, bike paths aplenty, beachside
chairs and waterfront Jacuzzis.
23 Ocean Ln.; 843-842-8000;
hiltonoceanfrontresort.com;
doubles from $118
HOLIDAY INN OCEANFRONT
This 1971 Holiday Inn's recent
remodel catapulted it into the luxe
category, minus a bit of the sticker
shock. It's one of the island's few
on-the-beach hotels. 1 S. Forest
Beach Dr.; 843-785-5126;
hihiltonhead.com; doubles from $76
WESTIN HILTON HEAD
ISLAND RESORT & SPA
The "newest" of Hilton Head's
resorts (built in 1985, renovated
in 2003) is one of the finest.
Expect oriental rugs, chandeliers
and towering floral displays in
the lobby, and elegant,
neutral-toned rooms. Other than
the quiet beachfront location, the
best part is the Heavenly Spa, where
sweetgrass baskets, indigo and other
indigenous details work their way
into his-and-her body treatments.
2 Grasslawn Ave.; 843-681-4000;
starwoodhotels.com; doubles
from $109
MAIN STREET INN & SPA
The island's only B&B is more
gilded Italianate manse meets
boutique hotel than Doily Central.
2200 Main St.; 800-471-3001;
mainstreetinn.com; doubles
from $129
HAMPTON INN HILTON HEAD
The chain's standard clean and
tidy rooms, along with microwaves
and mini-fridges, internet and hot
breakfasts. It's inland, and you'll
likely drive to your activities, but
if you plan to play outside all day,
it'll suit perfectly. 1 Dillon Rd.;
843-681-7900; hamptoninn.com;
doubles from $76
INN AT PALMETTO BLUFF
Whether you stay in a rental
house or a guest cottage, get set
for the white-glove treatment in
this charming Southern village
resort just west of Hilton Head.
Delightfully unpretentious, it
offers A-list room service and
dining facilities, bikes and kayaks,
steam showers, private porches,
golf-cart limo service and nightly
bonfire and s'mores roasts. All
this, and gas lanterns too. 476
Mount Pelia Rd., Bluffton;
843-706-6500;
palmettobluffresort.com; doubles
from $575
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Published: Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
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Photo: Sea Pines Resort
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