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Destination: Midcoast Maine
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A guide to the best Down East: What to see, do, buy and eat
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BY HILARY NANGLE
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A Monhegan Island lighthouse-keeper's house, now a museum; a biplane at the Owls Head Transportation Museum.
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When you stand on the summit of Ducktrap Mountain, you can scan midcoast Maine’s craggy coastline from Monhegan Island in Muscongus Bay to the south all the way to Mount Desert Island, rising out of Blue Hill Bay to the north. Ebbing and flowing between the two are the shimmering waters of Penobscot Bay, where windjammers and ferries, lobster boats and fishing trawlers, sailboats and power yachts dodge and dart among the islands. Scalloping the coastline are harbor communities—like Rockland, Rockport and Camden—that give this region its salty flavor.
Visitors are actually more likely to head to the summit of Camden’s Mount Battie, to view the panorama that poet Edna St. Vincent Millay described in Renascence:
All I could see from where I stood
Was three long mountains and a wood;
I turned and looked the other way,
And saw three islands in a bay.
Camden, tucked between the mountains and the sea, has long been the region’s magnet. Visitors come to sail or kayak its postcard-perfect harbor, to admire the historic houses, to hike mountain trails and to shop in its many boutiques.
The surrounding towns and islands are less well known. But once you venture off the beaten path, you’ll discover gardens, wineries, artists’ enclaves and fine museums. You’ll also find communities of Mainers whose deep roots date back umpteen generations, and harbors where working boats trump yachts.
ROCKPORT
Begin in Camden’s twin, Rockport, a genteel village notched into a hillside above one of Maine’s prettiest harbors. An hour-long sail aboard the Heron, a 65-foot wooden schooner designed by John Alden and docked in Marine Park, is a fine way to peek at oceanfront estates.
One of these is Aldemere Farm, a 136-acre saltwater farm now owned by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust. Descendants from America’s original herd of Belted Galloway cattle still graze here. (They’re nicknamed “Oreo cows” for their distinctive markings: black at both ends and white in the middle.) While you might glimpse the rustic, open-air nondenominational Vesper Hill Children’s Chapel nearby, the best way to see both sights is to take a leisurely pedal along the backroads between Rockport and Camden. From that vantage, you’ll be able to take in the views over Penobscot Bay from the chapel and enjoy landscaped lawns and gardens.
The chapel isn’t Rockport’s only secret garden. On the inland side of Route 1 is Avena Botanicals Medicinal Herb Garden, with more than 125 labeled species of common and medicinal herbs. And straddling the Camden–Rockport town line is 66-acre Merryspring Park, where trails wind through woodlands and past berry thickets and fields of wildflowers.
ROCKIN’ ROCKLAND
Locals used to joke that the slogan went, “Camden by the Sea, Rockland by the smell,” a reference to the years when foul scents from a fish-rendering plant marred the seaside city. The rendering plant is gone, and these days, Rockland rocks.
The revival began in the late ’90s with the expansion of the Farnsworth Art Museum and the establishment of the Wyeth Center, which displays works by the talented Wyeth family in a former church. The Farnsworth specializes in 19th- and 20th-century Maine-related American art, and its 10,000-plus collection includes works by Rockwell Kent, Robert Indiana, George Bellows, Louise Nevelson and Marsden Hartley. A great time to visit is during the Wednesday-night art walk, when the museum and some two dozen independent galleries stay open late.
Two other downtown museums are worth visiting. See lighthouse and Coast Guard memorabilia and artifacts at the Maine Lighthouse Museum, which has the nation’s largest collection of Fresnel lenses. And Project Puffin Visitor Center shows live video of those nesting clowns of the sea. In between, browse Rockland’s Main Street Historic District. Most of the 18th- and early-20-century Greek and Colonial Revival buildings house intriguing boutiques, antiques shops or restaurants.
Rockland has earned culinary kudos for its dining options, thanks to two James Beard Award winners: Melissa Kelly’s Primo, a destination in itself, and Waterman’s Beach Lobster, an order-at-the-counter lobster shack. Suzuki’s Sushi Bar, a must for Japanese-food fans, has earned recent praise, as have two other restaurants just steps away on Main Street—Lily Bistro, for country French fare, and In Good Company, a wine-and-tapas hot spot.
After your meal, go for a stroll on the 4,300-foot granite breakwater that protects Rockland Harbor; the lighthouse at the end is usually open on weekends. En route, watch for passing sailboats and lobstermen hauling traps. You might even see the three-masted Victory Chimes, the largest in Maine’s windjammer fleet, under full sail. For a dose of lobster lore, join Captain Steve Hale aboard the Captain Jack, a 30-foot working lobster boat, or board the ferry to Vinalhaven Island, where catching the crustacean is big business.
RURAL RAMBLINGS
South of Rockland, tall pines, jumbles of rugosa roses and freshly mowed fields scent the air with a sweet fragrance edged with brine. Villages, white farmhouses, artists’ galleries and lobster pounds are scattered about the landscape.
A must for Wyeth fans is the Olson House in Cushing, the landmark depicted in the painting “Christina’s World.” The Farnsworth Museum now owns the late-18th-century farmhouse, where Andrew Wyeth painted Christina Olson on the sloping front lawn. He also painted nearby Broad Cove Church, renowned for its annual bean-hole beans supper, held on a Saturday in July.
Another worthwhile detour is Owls Head, which noses into West Penobscot Bay just south of Rockland. The Owls Head Transportation Museum has saved many a vacation on a rainy day. It’s a must during event weekends, when the antique planes perform aerobatic shows. After your visit, pick up some lobster rolls at the Owls Head General Store, and eat them either in Owls Head State Park, while you savor the views from the lighthouse grounds, or in Birch Point State Park, a quiet, spruce-lined sand crescent where you can dip your toes in the water.
The St. George peninsula is thought to have inspired Sarah Orne Jewett’s 1910 novel The Country of the Pointed Firs, and driving down sinewy Route 131, it’s easy to understand the title. Along the route are galleries, granite quarries and fishing villages. Loop out to the Marshall Point Lighthouse & Museum, one of Maine’s prettiest. At the end is Port Clyde, a gentrifying fishing village with far too little parking.
Ten miles offshore, and accessible via passenger ferry, is Monhegan Island, also known as the Artists’ Island. Day-trippers come to visit the artists’ studios, hike the 17 miles of trails, add birds to their life list and view the fish shacks, crashing surf, soaring headlands and lighthouse—scenes that have been captured by generations of American artists. Crowning it all is Monhegan Lighthouse, now a museum highlighting the island’s culture, heritage and art.
LINCOLNVILLE
The sandy beach edging Route 1 north of Camden is a rarity in these parts, so it’s always crowded with sun worshippers and castle builders. Lincolnville also appeals to discriminating shoppers and view seekers.
Swans Island Blankets produces luxurious, handmade wool-and-silk blankets that have been featured in publications ranging from Coastal Living to Vogue. At Windsor Chairmakers, you can watch skilled woodworkers craft fine furnishings. Tucked in the hills are Cellardoor Winery, where you can sip wines and nibble cheese and crackers while overlooking the vineyard, and Duck Trap Decoys, with the largest selection of hand-carved decoys in the state.
And don’t miss driving to Point Lookout Resort, at the summit of Ducktrap Mountain, to feast your eyes on those heady coastal views—spectacular anytime, but especially at sunset.
EAT
FARMERS FARE
Make this your first stop in Rockport:
part farmers market (with meats, cheeses,
condiments, breads, spreads, confections)
and part café, serving mostly locally
sourced fare (soups, sandwiches, cheese
and charcuterie). Rte. 90 and Cross St.,
Rockport; 207-236-3273; lunch for two,
$23*
FRANCINE BISTRO
Chef Brian Hill creates divine fare
from locally sourced, mostly organic
ingredients. 55 Chestnut St., Camden;
207-230-0083; dinner for two, $90
NATALIE'S AT THE CAMDEN
HARBOUR INN
Chef Lawrence Klang’s menu is
sophisticated, elegant and delicious.
The four-course Menu Homard Grand
Cru takes lobster to new heights. Lighter
fare is served in the lounge. 83 Bayview
St., Camden; 800-236-4266; dinner
for two, $140
HARTSTONE INN
Elegant fine dining. Chef Michael
Salmon’s five-course menu changes
nightly. 41 Elm St., Camden;
800-788-4823; dinner for two, $90
PRIMO
James Beard Award–winning chef
Melissa Kelly’s menu highlights
Mediterranean flavors; much of the
produce is grown on-site. 2 S. Main
St., Rockland; 207-596-0770; dinner
for two, $110
WATERMAN'S BEACH LOBSTER
No less an authority than the James
Beard Foundation anointed this lobster
shack as the “quintessential Maine
experience.” 343 Waterman’s Beach
Rd., off Rte. 73, S. Thomaston;
207-596-7819; dinner for two, $65
SUZUKI'S SUSHI BAR
Craving sushi? Japan-born Keiko
Suzuki Steinberger delivers the real deal.
419 Main St., Rockland; 207-596-7447;
dinner for two, $55
LILY BISTRO
Chefs and co-owners Lynette Mosher
and Robert Krajewski serve classic
country French fare, such as coq au vin
and braised rabbit. 421 Main St., Rockland;
207-594-4141; dinner for two, $75
IN GOOD COMPANY
Casual wine and tapas spot, with some
heftier entrees. 415 Main St., Rockland;
207-593-9110; dinner for two, $60
CAFÉ MIRANDA
Ultra-casual and always packed, with
an overwhelming, often adventurous
menu. 15 Oak St., Rockland;
207-594-2034; dinner for two, $70
*Prices are for a meal for two
without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in the region include:
SAMOSET RESORT
This modern 72-unit resort is set on 230
acres overlooking Penobscot Bay. Indoor
and outdoor pools make it a year-round
retreat. 220 Warrenton St., Rockport
Member reviews:
“A well-planned resort with fitness
center, golf course and pool.”
“Great fitness club with free classes.”
“Nearby towns are small with a
friendly feel.”
“The seafood shop will steam your
lobster to eat in the comfort of your
own place.”
For more information, including more
member reviews, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
BERRY MANOR INN
Elegant B&B with 12 spacious rooms,
in a restored 1898 manse and adjacent
carriage house, within strolling distance
of downtown. 81 Talbot Ave., Rockland;
800-774-5692; berrymanorinn.com;
doubles from $175 per night
LIMEROCK INN
An 1890s Queen Anne B&B on a quiet
side street in Rockland’s historic district.
96 Limerock St., Rockland; 800-546-3762;
limerockinn.com; doubles from $159 per
night
CAMDEN HARBOUR INN
A chic and sophisticated full-service
boutique hotel with 18 rooms and
a Victorian feel. 83 Bayview St.,
Camden; 800-236-4266;
camdenharbourinn.com; doubles
from $325 per night, including
champagne breakfast
HARTSTONE INN
Elegant and romantic downtown B&B
with 21 rooms in two properties, and
an excellent restaurant. Cooking classes
are offered in the off-season. 41 Elm St.,
Camden; 800-788-4823;
hartstoneinn.com; doubles from $125
per night
POINT LOOKOUT RESORT
This former corporate executive retreat
has 106 well-equipped cabins tucked
in the woods on Ducktrap Mountain.
The sports facilities are state-of-the-art,
with a bowling alley, virtual golf, and
squash, racquetball and basketball courts.
67 Atlantic Hwy., Northport;
800-515-3611; visitpointlookout.com;
doubles from $189 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Summer 2010
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PHOTOS: Monheganwelcome.com; Park Morrison
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