At the height of summer, when Nantucket’s cobblestone streets are all but obscured by lumbering, late-model SUVs, when the line for the hand-rolled waffle cones at the Juice Bar snakes three-and-four abreast down Broad Street and the hunt for towel space requires a Lawrence of Arabia–like trek across the shifting hot sands, it’s easy to forget you’re on a tiny north Atlantic island, nearly 30 miles out to sea. But come late fall, when the harbor—in August, mast-to-mast with pleasure boats—has been returned to the scallopers and lobstermen, and the broad, wave-raked beaches to the gulls and gray seals, this historic outpost off the southeast coast of Massachusetts becomes what it is meant to be: dreamy, inspiring and deliciously isolated.
That doesn’t mean Nantucket is closed for business, however. Though the population of the 3 1/2-by-14-mile island drops from about 55,000 to 12,000, ferries still make daily crossings from Hyannis, and many shops, inns and restaurants stay open right through New Year’s Eve (many do close from January through March). Savvy mainland shoppers find Nantucket to be the perfect antidote to the holiday mall scene.
Cold winds can blow, and early-season snow occasionally whitens the ground, but Nantucket’s climate is generally milder than the mainland’s, thanks to its proximity to the Gulf Stream. So even in November and December, with the appropriate cool-weather gear, you can pedal the island’s network of paved bike paths, walk the wild-rose and bayberry-bordered trails through the rolling moors in the interior, and comb the empty beaches for scallop shells and silvered driftwood. Another off-season pleasure? As good as it is in August, clam chowder never tastes better than it does in the fading light of a chilly late fall afternoon.
WHALING TALE
Nantucket’s downtown area has changed little architecturally since the 19th century, when the island was the whaling capital of the world. Today, carefully restored homes—the grandest of them built by wealthy ship captains—line the narrow lanes off Main Street. Inns, stores and pubs occupy buildings that were once sail lofts, ship chandleries and grog shops. The entire island is a national historic district, with more than 800 buildings that pre-date the Civil War.
For insight into the island’s colorful past, visit the Nantucket Historical Association’s excellent Whaling Museum (15 Broad St.; 508-228-1894; nha.org; open until Dec. 17), housed in a former spermaceti candle factory near Steamship Wharf. The collection includes the skeleton of a 46-foot sperm whale, a fully rigged whaleboat, harpoons, scrimshaw, sea captains’ portraits and examples of the intricate Nantucket lightship baskets, woven by men looking for ways to ease the tedium while stationed for months aboard the South Shoal Lighthouse, a floating lighthouse 24 miles off Nantucket’s coast. Standing on the museum’s rooftop observation deck, it’s easy to imagine the harbor filled with scores of whaling ships returning from or embarking on their grueling hunts.
The whaling industry died out in the mid-1800s, but by the 1870s word had spread that Nantucket’s bracing air, ivory sand and clean waters were the cure for all kinds of mainland ills. With the opening of several grand hotels and inns—and even a railroad to ferry visitors out to the island’s east end—Nantucket was on its way to becoming the stylish tourist destination and vacation-home haven that it is today.
BIRDS AND BEACHES
Nantucket has more than 10 public beaches, as well as miles of powdery unnamed shoreline. Though beach facilities are closed in the off-season, visitors are welcome nonetheless. Jetties, on the calm Sound, is closest to town; Dionis, sheltered by dunes, is about three miles from Main Street; Madaket, on the far western end of the island, has heavy surf and offers the best vantage point for sunset-viewing. Birdwatchers make the trek out to the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge on the northeast coast, with miles of beach roads and hiking trails. (For information on car permits, go to thetrustees.org and click on Property Directory, or call 508-228-6799.) Long-tailed ducks, Iceland gulls, warblers and common eiders are frequently spotted here in winter.
If the weather cooperates, bicycling is the best way to see the island. Twenty-four miles of paved bike paths roll through the open heath lands and scrub forest, largely protected as conservation land. A 14-mile route loops east to the tiny 17th-century fishing village of ’Sconset, past the red-and-white striped Sankaty Head Lighthouse, then back to town via the Polpis Road bike path past brackish ponds, cranberry bogs and snug shingled cottages. For a less ambitious ride, you can take the three-mile path from town to Surfside Beach. Young’s Bike Shop rents bikes in town (6 Broad St.; 508-228-1151; open through Christmas, $30/day).
Even in the off-season, it’s possible to get out on the water. Shearwater Excursions (508-228-7037; explore nantucket.com) runs 49-passenger boat trips year-round to Muskegat Island, off Nantucket’s west coast, where the beach is lined with seals also enjoying Nantucket in winter.
SHOP
All of the following shops are open year-round.
Murray’s Toggery
The place to pick up a pair of “Nantucket Reds,” the island’s signature dusty-rose canvas pants, and other high-prep essentials like madras skirts and Shetland sweaters. 62 Main St.; 508-228-0437
Mitchell’s Book Corner
Look for an extensive collection of Nantucket-themed and nautical books, as well as current bestsellers and frequent appearances by local authors. 54 Main St.; 508-228-1080; nantucket.net
Bill & Judy Sayle’s Nantucket Lightship Baskets
The Sayles weave exquisite traditional Nantucket lightship baskets with oak ribs, cherrywood bottoms, leather hinges, oak handles and lids decorated with ivory or scrimshaw. Prices go to $775 for the covered baskets, which are coveted as stylish handbags. 112 Washington St.; 508-228-9876; weekends by appointment
Nina Hellman Marine Antiques
Fine antique scrimshaw, ship models, nautical books, instruments and paintings. 48 Centre St.; 508-228-4677; nauticalnantucket.com
Diana Kim England, Goldsmiths
Lovely gold jewelry, including popular lightship basket pendants—produced in the studio upstairs. 56 Main St.; 508-228-3766; dianakimengland.com
Sweet Inspirations
Artisan confections like chocolate-covered cranberries, sold in Nantucket baskets and painted collectible tins. 26 Centre St.; 508-228-5814; nantucketchocolatier.com
STAY
Sherburne Inn
Relax in the 1835 headquarters of a silk company, on a quiet lane steps from Main Street. The inn has two fireplace parlors and eight romantic guest rooms with wide-plank floors, oriental rugs and antique furnishings. 10 Gay St.; 888-577-4425; sherburneinn.com; doubles from $105, including breakfast
Union Street Inn
Four-poster beds, toile wallpaper and Frette linens grace the 12 rooms of this sophisticated 1770 house, run by former New York hoteliers, in the heart of town. 7 Union St.; 800-225-5116; unioninn.com; doubles from $140, including breakfast
White Elephant Hotel
This recently renovated shingled landmark overlooking the harbor has 53 airy rooms and suites, most with fireplaces, and 11 garden cottages—plus in-room spa treatments. Open until December 2; 50 Easton St.; 800-445-6574; doubles from $260
Jared Coffin House
Forty-three elegant rooms and suites are housed in two historic buildings, including a classic 1845 brick mansion built by Coffin, one of the island’s most prosperous ship captains. 29 Broad St.; 508-228-2400; jaredcoffinhouse.com; doubles from $98
EAT
Even-Keel Cafe
Casual breakfast spot on Main Street has Wi-Fi service, takeout baked goods and smoothies, plus omelets, rum-battered French toast and lobster Benedict. 40 Main St.; 508-228-1979; breakfast for two, $40*
Centre Street Bistro
This intimate, warm, eight-table hideaway serves creative seasonal cuisine. From October through March, expect signature baked goat cheese tarts and delectable local scallops. 29 Centre St.; 508-228-8470; dinner for two, $43
American Seasons
Behind a trellised entranceway, this perennial standout, a short walk from the town center, serves imaginative seasonal and regional dishes paired with an impressive wine list. 80 Centre St.; 508-228-7111; dinner for two, $55
Starlight Theatre & Café
After dinner, head into the small theater where first-run and indie movies are shown. 1 N. Union St.; 508-228-4479; open lunch and dinner; dinner for two, $60
21 Federal
Stop in for one of the liveliest—and best-dressed—bar scenes on the island, in a lovely 1847 Greek Revival house right in town. 21 Federal St.; 508-228-2121; dinner for two, $100
* Prices cover a three-course meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.
HOW TO GET HERE
BY SEA: Two ferry lines operate out of Hyannis, MA.
The Steamship Authority runs a vehicle ferry year-round that makes the trip in two hours and 15 minutes. 508-477-8600; steamshipauthority.com; from $240 per vehicle round-trip; vehicle reservations required
Hy-Line Cruises operates a high-speed catamaran passenger ferry several times daily; the crossing takes an hour. 800-492-8082;
hy-linecruises.com; $69 round-trip adults, $49 children
BY AIR: Three airlines service the island.
Cape Air makes the 50-minute flight from Boston year-round. 800-352-0714; capeair.com; $319 round-trip
Island Airlines offers as many as 20 daily flights from Hyannis—a 20-minute hop. 800-248-7779; islandair.net; $94 round-trip
Nantucket Airlines flies several times daily from Hyannis. 800-635-8787; nantucketairlines.com; $99 round-trip
EVENTS
Nantucket Noel is a monthlong (Nov. 23–Dec. 31) celebration organized by the chamber of commerce. The highlight is the Christmas Stroll Weekend (Nov. 30–Dec. 2), when costumed carolers and bell-ringers roam the gas lamp–lit town, wreaths adorn weathered dories, and 150 decorated trees line Main Street. Galleries, antiques shops and boutiques welcome browsers by serving warm cookies and hot cider. 508-228-1700; nantucketchamber.org
INSPIRATION
A Nantucket Christmas, by Leslie Linsley and Jeffrey Allen (Bullfinch)
Nantucket: The Quiet Season, by Cary Hazlegrove (Chronicle Books)
Time and Tide: A Walk Through Nantucket, by Frank Conroy (Crown Journeys)