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Destination: Northern Michigan
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The corner of northern Michigan in and around Traverse City offers food, wine and challenging sand dunes
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BY KHRISTI ZIMMETH
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Shoppers on the go in Traverse City, MI; Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery
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Warm weather brings climbers of all ages to one particularly steep wall of sand in northwest Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. After pausing at the 110-foot summit to admire the view (and let their pounding hearts stabilize), they push off with a whoop and are propelled downhill by gravity and adrenaline, hooting all the way.
However many times you do it, the Dune Climb (and following descent) will take your breath away. Those in search of gentler thrills can follow the park’s seven-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, just south of the climb. It winds through dunes and woods, with beautiful views of Lake Michigan and its beaches.
These are just a few of the unexpected natural pleasures of a weekend in Michigan’s compact northwest corner, about five hours from Detroit. Base yourself in one of the area’s many scenic towns, like Bellaire, and make day trips to Traverse City (about an hour’s drive) and its two peninsulas, Old Mission and Leelanau, a little farther away but well worth the trip.
LOVELY LEELANAU
Thousands of years ago, retreating glaciers left their sand on plateaus high above Lake Michigan. It’s believed that the Native Americans who once lived here called the enchanting 36-mile-long peninsula “Lee-lan-au,” which means “delight of life.” Sleeping Bear (whose name comes from an Ojibway legend about two drowned bear cubs and their ever-watchful mother) is known for its so-called perched dunes, some of which rise 400 feet. Experienced hikers can take the challenging Dunes Trail, a 3½-mile trek to Lake Michigan and back.
The peninsula is filled with walkable towns: Empire, Suttons Bay, Glen Arbor, Leland and Northport, each with its own distinct personality. In Suttons Bay, check out Bahle’s department store, which has been on the main street since 1876. Indulge in one of the famous cinnamon rolls at the Bluebird Restaurant in Leland, or explore the art galleries in Glen Arbor and the 19th-century lighthouse in Northport.
This part of Michigan produces some 150 million pounds of tart cherries every year—three-quarters of the nation’s crop. Understandably, the fruit plays a big part in the area’s psyche and economy, even starring in the eight-day National Cherry Festival in Traverse City each July. Pay homage at Glen Arbor’s Cherry Republic, a store with a small café (6026 Lake St.; 800-206-6949; cherryrepublic.com). Salsa, hot sauce and more than 100 other cherry-flavored products are available for sampling and for sale.
The hills south of Suttons Bay are home to Black Star Farms, an “agri-destination” where you can stay in an eight-room inn and visit the stables, farm, vineyard and wine-tasting room (blackstarfarms.com). You’ll also find the Leelanau Cheese Co., founded in 1995 by John Hoyt and his French-born wife, Anne. Their award-winning raclette, made with milk from local cows and aged in a cave, makes a fine alfresco snack when combined with a bottle of Black Star’s award-winning wine.
THOROUGHLY MODERN MAIN STREET
From Leelanau, continue on to Traverse City, about 25 miles east. The region’s largest city and cultural seat, Traverse City has attracted national attention in recent years as one of Michigan’s designated Cool Cities. Local celebrity Michael Moore holds a film festival here each July, and Madonna’s father owns a winery nearby. But much of its small-town soul remains.
Evidence of that can be found on Front Street, just a block from the beaches of Grand Traverse Bay. The thoroughfare recently made it onto the list of 10 Great Streets in America, as designated by the American Planning Association. Restored brick storefronts house utilitarian shoe stores, trendy cafés and kitschy souvenir shops. The City Opera House, a Victorian landmark that opened in 1892, now hosts more rock concerts than operas. A block away is the art deco–era State Theatre, where Moore and company hold court each summer.
Other highlights include Cali’s Cottons (242 E. Front St.; 231-947-0633), for natural-fiber fashions and hip housewares; Horizon Books (243 E. Front St.; 231-946-7290; horizonbooks.com), in a former J.C. Penney; and Jacques Torres (225 E. Front St.; 231-929-7100), the chocolatier’s second location outside New York City.
COMMON GROUND
Traverse City’s newest attraction is The Village at Grand Traverse Commons (thevillagetc.com), on 11th Street about a mile west of downtown. The development is housed in the historic Northern Michigan Asylum, a 19th-century hospital whose founders believed that fresh air and beautiful scenery could ease the suffering of the mentally ill. After the hospital closed in the late 1980s, the castle-like buildings were turned into restaurants and shops. The former laundry is now the Left Foot Charley winery, while the Underground Cheesecake Co. makes 42 types of cheesecake in a space once used for potato-peeling. The greater grounds, some 480 wooded acres, draw joggers, cross-country skiers and birders.
Starting in May, you can watch the Traverse City Beach Bums play Frontier League baseball in 3,500-seat Wuerfel Park. Through September, the Bums play other Midwestern teams, such as the Lake Erie Crushers and the Windy City ThunderBolts (333 Stadium Dr.; traversecitybeachbums.com). Another seasonal pleasure is a double feature at the Cherry Bowl Drive-In (9812 Honor Hwy., Honor; 231-325-3413), where Northern Michigan’s largest screen has been showing new releases since 1953. While the movies are current, the place has a decidedly retro vibe.
Looking for another low-cost treat? Catch one of many regular free music or dance performances by students and staff at the Interlochen Center for the Arts (231-276-7200; interlochen.org), a respected performing-arts school in Interlochen, just south of Traverse City.
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS
Northern Michigan’s 45th-parallel location and lake-tempered microclimate have been compared to those of France and Italy. While cherries have long been the region’s crop of choice, grape cultivation has increased steadily since the 1970s, when a few adventurous winemakers began experimenting with traditional European varieties. Almost 40 years later, some two dozen vineyards are spread across the Leelanau Peninsula and the nearby 18-mile-long Old Mission Peninsula. More than a million gallons of boutique-style wine are produced and bottled in the state annually.
If you’re looking to take a few bottles home, consider Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery, which has won gold medals from the Tasters Guild International for its Gewürztraminer and ice wines. And both Bowers Harbor Vineyards and Chateau Grand Traverse earned silver for their Rieslings in the 2009 International Eastern Wine Competition.
The larger vineyards have tasting rooms, tours, even Euro-style bed-and-breakfasts. One of these is Chateau Chantal, a 65-acre estate with an 11-room inn (see Stay sidebar); another is the 120-acre Chateau Grand Traverse (12239 Center Rd., Traverse City; 231-223-7355), a top producer since the 1970s with tours, tastings and six guest rooms. Worthwhile vintages include aromatic whites such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Grigio, and fruity reds like Pinot Noir and Merlot.
Not surprisingly, winemaking has spurred a new focus on artisanal foods in the region. Midwest Living magazine put Traverse City on its 2009 list of best food towns. Self-guided tours organized by the city’s visitor center take in such places as Moomer’s Ice Cream (chosen by “Good Morning America” viewers as the country’s best ice cream), Bay Bread, and the Grand Traverse Distillery, where Kent Rabish makes True North and cherry-flavored vodkas. If you’re visiting Bellaire, be sure to try a Pandemonium Pale Ale or Local’s Lager at Short’s Brewery Co.
Later, work off all that food and wine by playing a round on one of the area’s lovely golf courses, biking along the miles of Lake Michigan shore, or kayaking on the Chain of Lakes near Bellaire. Or just head back to Sleeping Bear Dunes. After a weekend spent indulging in the area’s bounty, you may be ready to give that Dune Climb another try.
EAT
TRATTORIA STELLA
Owners Paul and Amanda Danielson have
embraced fresh, locally sourced ingredi-
ents and the Slow Food movement.
The Italian-inspired menu changes daily.
1200 W. 11th St., Traverse City;
231-929-8989; dinner for two, $70*
THE COOKS' HOUSE
A six-table restaurant serving sustainable
and market-fresh fare. On the menu:
dishes like wild-mushroom omelet and
cavatappi pasta with house-made pork
sausage in a tomato-rosemary cream
sauce. There’s no beer or wine sold here,
but you can pick up your own in the
market across the street and bring it in.
439 Front St., Traverse City; 231-946-
8700; five-course tasting menu,
$45 per person
RED GINGER
Conveniently located next to the State
Theatre, this new Asian fusion restaurant
blends Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese
cuisine. Try the steamed dumplings
and the Mongolian rack of lamb.
237 E. Front St., Traverse City; 231-944-
1733; dinner for two, $75
AMICAL
Tomato soup in puff pastry is a house
specialty, but the quiches, salads and
Lake Michigan whitefish (with your choice
of four crusts) are equally notable.
In summer, sit on the patio and watch the
world go by. 229 E. Front St., Traverse City;
231-941-8888; dinner for two, $70
AERIE
On the 16th floor of the sprawling Grand
Traverse Resort, the Aerie offers stunning
views of Grand Traverse Bay. The stellar
service and “traditional with a twist” menu
(which lists such dishes as roasted figs
with Roquefort cheese and peach
caramel, and Great Lakes walleye with
basil) make it worth the splurge.
100 Grand Traverse Village Blvd., Acme;
231-534-6800; dinner for two, $60
BLU
Raves keep coming for Randy Chamber-
lain’s creative cuisine, seen in tasty
entrees like Michigan white-tail venison
with Leelanau cherry sauce or Blu lump
crabcakes. Open Thursday through
Sunday only. 5705 S. Lake St., Glen Arbor;
231-334-2530; dinner for two, $100
SLEDER'S FAMILY TAVERN
The city’s oldest continuously operating
tavern was opened in 1882 by an
immigrant from Bohemia. Sleder’s is
known for its rustic paneled walls and
wood benches, live musical performances
and a family-friendly menu with a mix
of Mexican and “Midwestern” cuisine.
Burgers, nachos, burritos and cherry-
barbecued chicken are all winners.
Be sure to kiss the Randolph the Moose.
717 Randolph St., Traverse City;
231-947-9213; dinner for two, $40
LULU'S BISTRO
Owner and executive chef Michael
Peterson put sleepy Bellaire on the map
when he opened Lulu’s Bistro. The nightly
fresh fish, such as a pan-seared Pacific
halibut with roasted fingerling potatoes,
Swiss chard, pancetta and artichoke
tomato sauce, is a treat; there’s also lighter
fare like pizza. 213 N. Bridge St., Bellaire;
231-533-5252; dinner for two, $60
*Unless otherwise noted, prices cover a meal for two without drinks,
tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILLIATED RESORTS IN THE REGION INCLUDE:
PINESTEAD REEF RESPORTF—VIP
Just 3½ miles east of downtown Traverse
City and right on Grand Traverse Bay, with
700 feet of private beachfront. All units
face the water; those on the second and
third floors have balconies. The indoor
pool, sauna and whirlpool are great for all
seasons. 1265 US 31 N., Traverse City
Member Reviews:
“The outstanding view of Lake Michigan is
my favorite part. We come back again
and again for the view and the pool.”
“Visit the Traverse City Pie Co. downtown.
They offer wonderful lunch items as well
as freshly baked pies.”
“Great for women to get away and just
quilt all day long! I love the popcorn store
downtown, a great snack between fabric breaks.”
VACATION CLUB
This resort offers golf on five premier
courses, indoor and outdoor pools, a
private beach club, lighted tennis courts
and boating on nearby Lake Bellaire (and
the adjoining Chain of Lakes). In winter,
you can ski, snowboard or tube at Shanty
Creek Resort, which has 41 downhill runs
and 19 miles of cross-country trails.
5820 Shanty Creek Rd., Bellaire**
Member Reviews:
“Grass River Natural Area is a beautiful
walk in summer and winter.”
“This is the fourth time we have stayed
with Vacation Club. Each unit has been
clean and a great place to relax after
skiing all day.”
VACATION CLUB II
Vacation Club II offers the same amenities
as Vacation Club, above. Units in both
have stone fireplaces and full kitchens.
5820 Shanty Creek Rd., Bellaire
Member Reviews:
“Great for a family with older children.
There’s skiing and tubing and swimming.”
“Centennial Farm Golf Club and
its restaurant are the best nearby
attractions.”
SHANTY CREEK LODGES
Part of a three-village resort overlooking
Lake Bellaire, with tennis courts, a private
beach club, four championship golf
courses and a spa offering a full range
of wraps, scrubs and massages.
1 Shanty Creek Rd., Bellaire
Member Reviews:
“The Lakeview Restaurant at the resort
is a must for a sunset dinner or drinks.”
“A quiet and peaceful place, perfect
for relaxation.”
“The outdoor heated year-round pool
was fun in March!”
“Dockside, on the shore of Torch Lake
(about 15 minutes away), is a favorite
casual restaurant.”
**Bellaire, MI, is about 35 miles northeast of Traverse City.
For more information,
including more member reviews,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:
PARK PLACE HOTEL
A centrally located hotel that dates back
to 1873, with 140 rooms and suites.
300 E. State St., Traverse City;
231-946-5000; park-place-hotel.com;
doubles from $110 per night
TAMARACK LODGE
Spacious suites in a Arts-and-Crafts-style
inn on the bay. All have kitchens and
private decks. 2035 US 31 N., Traverse City;
877-938-9744; tamaracklodgetc.com;
doubles from $162 per night
BLACK STAR FARMS
Eight European-style rooms with fireplaces,
perfect for a romantic getaway.
10844 E. Revold Rd., Suttons Bay;
231-944-1251; blackstarfarms.com;
doubles from $225 per night
CHATEAU CHANTAL
An Old World B&B whose rooms overlook
the vineyards. 15900 Rue de Vin, Traverse
City; 800-969-4009; chateauchantal.com;
doubles from $155 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Spring 2010 Issue
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Photos: Traverse City CVB; Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery
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