The Land of Enchantment is justly famous for its arts and spices, but its secret weapon is its spas. At first glance, it seems improbable that anything even remotely self-indulgent could stake a toehold in terrain so vast and craggy, but in New Mexico, beauty hides in unexpected places. The best way to discover it—both the natural and the skin-deep—is to embark on a roving road odyssey whose mission is thrillingly simple: maximal awe, optimal relaxation.
THE DRIVE:
Santa Fe is home to so many luxe spa retreats, you’d need more than a week to do them all justice. Instead, escape the Plaza throngs and head three miles north to SháNah Spa in the lush Tesuque Valley. Located at the 150-year-old Bishop’s Lodge Resort, the spa recently expanded to include private outdoor treatment rooms and the city’s only watsu pool. Its newest treatment, the Rainbow Chakra Massage ($125), spoils you with an hour-long head-to-toe rub-down using natural infusions (mint, citrus, rose-petal oil) to invigorate each of the body’s energy centers, or chakras.
From there, it’s a stunning two-hour drive north to Taos—and back in time—along the High Road, a two-lane route that winds through farming villages on the flanks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Stop for tortilla soup and enchiladas at Rancho de Chimayo’s rambling hacienda (505-351-4444; lunch for two, $30). Afterward,wander over to El Santuario de Chimayo, a nearly 200-year-old adobe chapel whose healing dirt draws thousands of pilgrims a year.
Just off the Plaza in Taos, the Living Spa at the exquisite El Monte Sagrado eco-resort blends Native American and global healing traditions. When you’re not meditating in its private Sacred Circle—a labyrinth of stones—ensconce yourself in the spa. The High Desert Body Treatment ($170) drenches your parched skin with indigenous-plant oils from Taos, exfoliates your scales with a salt rub from the Zuni nation, and then moisturizes you with a soothing sage lotion.
The main road southwest from Taos drops steeply into the Rio Grande Gorge, whose rough sandstone walls shade kayakers and rafters on the river. Turn west on Route 570 at the tiny arts community of Pilar, and meander along the river, stopping for a dip or a stroll in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area. Continue on across the river at Taos Junction Bridge, then head west on 567 until US 285. From there it’s 10 miles south to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, a kitschy but beloved natural-health outpost with eight guest cabins and four different sulfur-free mineral pools: lithia, iron, soda and arsenic. Ojo’s 10 communal outdoor tubs encourage all-day lounging, but if you prefer to soak solo, there are three secluded pools. (All day tub pass, from $16.)
Looping back to Santa Fe, it’s time to pay homage to the granddaddy of New Mexico spas, Ten Thousand Waves. This Japanese-style hot springs in the foothills above town has teak outdoor baths, a new meditation room and an enormous koi pond. The massages are legendary, as is the exfoliating salt glow, but for true perfection, try the Indo-Asian Hot-Oil massage ($144) chased by a sandalwood exfoliation and an Ayurvedic herbal wrap. Paradise found.
STAY
RCI®-affiliated resorts in Santa Fe include:
OTRA VEZ EN SANTA FE
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED NEW MEXICO HOTELS:
SHANAH SPA AT
BISHOP'S LODGE
1297 Bishops Lodge Rd.,
Santa Fe; 505-819-4000;
www.bishopslodge.com;
doubles from $319
EL MONTE SAGRADO
317 Kit Carson Rd., Taos;
800-828-8267; www.elmontesagrado.com;
doubles from $269
OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS
50 Los Baños Dr., Ojo
Caliente; 800-222-9162;
www.ojocalientesprings.com;
cabins from $159
TEN THOUSAND WAVES
3451 Hyde Park Rd., Santa
Fe; 505-992-5025; www.tenthousandwaves.com;
doubles from $199