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On Location: Hungary
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Our Prague-based writer explores Hungary's Lake Balaton by the bite and the sip
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BY EVAN RAIL
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Glassy Lake Balaton reflects boats docked near Balatonfüred; lángos, a deep fried flatbread found in the region.
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Living in the Czech Republic gives Rail easy access to Berlin, Munich, Vienna and other great cities in central and eastern Europe. But he and his wife, Nina, have had even more fun exploring the region's backroads and hinterlands.
FISHERMAN'S FRIEND
Over the past few years we've made several car trips to Hungary. Despite the area's reputation for bland meals we've always been pleasantly surprised by the food, noting the ample spices and quality ingredients. At Lake Balaton, our favorite dish was the legendary balatoni halászlé, or Balaton fisherman's soup.
There are variations of halászlé all over Hungary, but the Balaton version seems to mark the recipe's high point. The rich, slightly smoky stew is made with as many as five kinds of freshwater fish, lots of roasted bell peppers and a healthy amount of sweet and spicy Hungarian paprika. The secret ingredient is supposed to be the buttery Balaton pike-perch, or zander—a fish so prized that it was long ago introduced in waterways in Britain, France and other non-native countries.
Though halászlé is available in many restaurants, the most flavorful version we found was at Gulyásudvar (2 Posta köz St., Tihany; 011-36-87-438-051). Another good bet: Víg Bacchus (26 Kossuth Lajos, Badacsony; 011-36-87-531-031), a family-run restaurant set high on the hill, with a spectacular view over the vineyards.
SNACK TIME
It wouldn't be a beach holiday without snacks, and Balaton has something special: lángos, a deep-fried flatbread served with a range of toppings. Lángos are roughly the size of a small pizza, and they can be sweet or savory. The all-time classic is the salty sajtos-tejfölös (cheese and sour cream) version.
I wish I could tell you the address of the best lángos kiosk I found, but it's a tiny snack bar without an address or phone. I can tell you that it's in Balatonfüred, at the very end of the Tagore Promenade. (When you see an old man playing the accordion on a park bench, you're at the right place.) The snack bar's lángos are crisp on the outside but light and fluffy inside, with piles of melted cheese and sour cream. The high calorie content (yes, fried dough and dairy) explains its popularity after a long bike ride or swim, and the price is right (less than $2 USD).
THE WISDOM OF FOOD
There are about a zillion ways to get to know a different culture, but language classes and history books can only do so much. I'm a firm believer in learning by eating. With every bite of fluffy lángos and spoonful of peppery halászlé you'll feel as if you know more about what it means to be Hungarian. It may be your first visit to Balaton; it may be your 14th. Either way, I'm certain you'll understand.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: September 1, 2009
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Photos: Gary John Norman; Kristy Balliet
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