 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
On Location: Ibiza, With the Volume Turned Down
|
|
In his younger days, Madrid–based writer Andrew Ferren hit the clubs of this Spanish island. Now he returns to find the quieter side
|
|
BY ANDREW FERREN
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
| The Hacienda Na Xamena’s Suspended Waterfalls, part of its saltwater spa, on a cliff high above the Mediterranean; a church in the town of Santa Gertrudis. |
|
|
|
My first (and only) full-on panic attack happened when I was in my twenties, at an Ibiza club called Pacha. It was early still—just 4 a.m.!—and I was chatting with friends on an open patch of dance floor. Nearby, go-go boys and girls were trying to liven up the crowd by peeling off their next-to-last layers of clothing. Seconds later a mass of zoned-out Italian teenagers, most holding lit cigarettes, snaked through the crowd, arms linked, shoving dancers aside to keep their conga line intact. As the crowd zoomed in, my friends and I were pressed against the stage. The floor quickly became littered with bottles and plastic cups. Unhinged and dripping with sweat, I frantically pushed my way out.
The incident lasted only five minutes, but it was years before I returned to Ibiza. Finally, various events lured me back—weddings, birthday parties and writing assignments, including one for an article that will appear in the Spring 2011 issue of Endless Vacation® magazine. I discovered that the island’s low-key charms are far more diverse than the oversold party scene. Residents may no longer be farmers or fishermen—or even Spanish—but island life still unfolds in small villages that now blend rustic charm with global culture.
Many travelers obsess over the next place to go, but on my last trip to Ibiza I found myself trying to get back—to the place where I ate a great meal a few years ago, and the shop where I bought that now-worn-out wallet. Here are some of my favorite spots that didn’t make it into my article, along with some new finds.
OFF THE BEACH
In the middle of the island is the town of Santa Gertrudis, whose casual restaurants draw more locals than first-time tourists craning their necks in search of celebrities. Head to the Macao Café (8 Venda des Poble; 011-34-971-314-707) for excellent pizzas and pastas in a breezy garden. Then check out the consignments at Casi Todo (Plaza de la Iglesia; 011-34-971-997-023; casitodo.com), an auction house with weekly sales of oddball antiques, colorful ceramics and modern art.
STYLE WATCH
I often write about architecture and interior design, so I tend to notice when Ibiza’s rural hotels and private houses land on the pages of design magazines. Bold and colorful, Ibiçencan style is also about restraint—the island’s mild climate and spectacular views are the real stars, so the best architecture just provides the right spaces for enjoying them. Atzaro, a hotel I found while on assignment, is a current example of that style, but there are dozens of others—like Na Xamena, on a private cove on the north coast (011-34-971-334-500; hotelhacienda-ibiza.com; doubles from $318). When it emerges from a major renovation this summer, Na Xamena will offer an idyllic romantic getaway; most rooms have private hot tubs with ocean views.
BARS TO REMEMBER
I may have sworn off Ibiza’s mega nightclubs, but I still like to take some liquid refreshment in a sophisticated setting. On the island’s eastern side, opposite the church in the tiny village of Sant Augusti (south of Sant Antoni), I found Can Berri (Plaza Mayor, 011-34-971-803-035), whose beautiful walled garden is a great place for post-beach or pre-dinner cocktails and Japanese–inspired nibbles. And the famous Km 5 along the highway between Ibiza Town and Sant Josép (Km 5.6 Carretera Sant Josép; 011-34-971-396-349; km5-lounge.com) is still one of the coolest island hangouts, with its combination of indoor, tented and open-air garden spaces, all decked out with couches, canopied daybeds and assorted poufs. And even if you stick around a few hours, you won’t do any damage to your eardrums.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
|
|
|
|
Published: January 4, 2011
|
|
Photos: www.hotelhacienda-ibiza.com; Francisco Guerrero
|
|
|