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On Location: Orlando’s Offbeat Eateries
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Our resident writer shares more of her favorite places to eat (and be entertained)
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BY RONA GINDIN
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| The stylish entrance to Cocina 214; a toast to a Shipyard Emporium brew. |
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In the Spring 2012 issue, our reviewer uncovers some surprising restaurants in Orlando. She didn’t have room to list all the places that deserve attention, so she’s squeezing some more in here. It looks as if adventure isn’t confined to the theme parks.
MAMA DELLA’S RISTORANTE
Hearty Italian meals, both classic and contemporary, make Mama Della’s a satisfying experience. But that’s just the beginning. An actress plays the role of Mama Della, welcoming guests to her “home” in a thick Italian accent. The rooms are decorated with floral wallpaper and ceramic roosters and other knickknacks. A spirited trio—singer, guitarist, accordion player—roams from table to table, serenading diners. Loews Portofino Bay Hotel, 5601 Universal Blvd., Orlando; 407-503-3463; dinner for two, $85*
THE RUSTY SPOON
Many visitors to Orlando don’t realize that Florida is an agricultural state. At this casual gastropub in the heart of downtown, chefs embrace the best that the area’s farmers have to offer. Locally raised pork is used to make “Gypsy goulash,” with smoky tomato and creamy grits; hand-rolled pasta is stuffed with the freshest Sunshine State vegetables. Great beers and wines accompany the menu, which is touted as “American Food. European Roots. Locally Sourced.” 55 W. Church St., Orlando; 407-401-8811; dinner for two, $70
COCINA 214
A few years after moving to town, two Dallas transplants so craved an upscale-casual Tex-Mex meal that they decided to open their own restaurant. They named it Cocina, which means “kitchen,” and added their hometown’s area code, 214. Guests are seated in a cavernous, sleek yet warm dining room and on a patio and dine on such robustly flavored north-of-the-border dishes as mushroom-spinach quesadillas and braised pork carnitas tacos. In an unusual touch, the chefs make the fruit syrups used in the margaritas. 151 Welbourne Ave. E., Winter Park; 407-790-7997; dinner for two, $55
SHIPYARD EMPORIUM
Great beer and great food: That’s the essence of this year-old brewpub, which has become a gathering spot for Orlandoans seeking a simple yet gratifying meal. At the bar, staffers tap boutique brews; for weekends they even make their own, using ingredients like smoky bacon and tangelos plucked from a friend’s tree. The chef is just as committed to his craft, which explains why folks show up just for the buffalo-chicken dip, lobster flatbread pizza and chicken-shrimp étouffée. 200 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park; 321-274-4045; dinner for two, $50
T-REX
You’ll be happy enough with the dishes produced in the Kitchen of Fire: Cretaceous Chicken-Fried Steak, say, or Tyrannosaurus T-Bone. But it’s the mega-budget decor that draws visitors to this “prehistoric family adventure.” Over-the-top themed rooms resemble ice caves, deep woods and other prehistoric settings. Animatronic dinosaurs roar, and a faux meteor shower descends on cue in the dramatically darkened dining room. Restless kids can be dispatched to dig for artifacts in a sand pit or amuse themselves in the Build-A-Dino workshop. Downtown Disney, 1676 E. Buena Vista Dr., Lake Buena Vista; 407-828-8739; dinner for two, $70
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: January 12, 2012
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Photos: Cocina 214; Shipyard Emporium
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