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On Location: Phoenix
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A desert metropolis shows its wild side
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BY LOLLY MERRELL
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| Red rock in the Superstition Mountains; biking with Cactus Adventures. |
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During regular trips to her husband’s hometown, Merrell gets a chance to scale the Superstition Mountains and bird-watch along the Salt River
HOMECOMING
It’s been 15 years since my husband, David, first introduced me to his hometown of Phoenix. We drove there from New Mexico and, as we descended the interstate, the Arizona landscape went from evergreen forest and scrubby foothills to canyons spotted with saguaro . . . and then, suddenly, concrete. Buildings were everywhere—vertical, horizontal, pyramid-shaped. The sight has less impact when you fly into Phoenix, but when you drive in from any direction, you’re shocked by this oasis of urbanity. Still, David regaled me with tales of rock-climbing in canyons, stumbling on rattlers while setting off rockets in the desert, and floating (illegally, mind you) down the Arizona Canal that stripes the city. Yet I saw none of this as we drove through town. Instead, sparkling cars were being whisked away by parking valets while their owners flocked to busy restaurants. “Where exactly is all this nature?” I asked. To me, it looked as if David’s boyhood memories had been swallowed up by skyscrapers and million-dollar houses. “I’ll show you,” he said.
INTO THE NEARLY WILD
He has kept his promise. Since then, we’ve started almost every visit with an evening jog on the gravel paths along the Arizona Canal. More than 70 miles of canal trails crisscross posh residential areas, swaths of rocky desert, landscaped parks and seedy city neighborhoods. As the desert heat subsides, residents emerge from their houses to jog, walk dogs, bike or even ride horses beside the deep water (these days, it’s harder to get away with floating). One of the best parts of these trails is their easy access. Simply check the city’s map (srpnet.com/water/canals/distances.aspx), find a spot to park and get walking or riding—you can rent bikes from Cactus Adventures (cactusadventures.com; 480-940-7433; from $30).
INTO THE TRULY WILD
You’ll find great desert parks within the city limits, but an hour’s drive east gets you to the isolated wilderness of the Superstition Mountains, where David learned to rock-climb. The routes range from beginner-friendly top-rope ascents to advanced overhangs. I’m lucky that I have a home-grown guide at my disposal, but you can get help from one of the area schools, such as Arizona Climbing School (climbingschool.com; 480-363-2390). If climbing isn’t in your plans, the hikes are spectacular, offering streamside wanders and strenuous scrambles. Buy a guide (like Bruce Grubbs’s Hiking Arizona's Superstition and Mazatzal Country) and choose your route depending on what you’d like to see—the ancient cliff dwellings should definitely be on your list.
BACK TO THE BIRDS
Years ago, David and I explored a section of the Salt River where migratory birds flapped around in marshland that had once been a dumping ground. Today, this 600-acre plot is called the Rio Salado Habitat Restoration Area (phoenix.gov/riosalado/; 602-262-6863) and provides a home to some 200 species of birds. Before you hit the 16 miles of hiking and riding trails, visit the Nina Mason Pulliam Rio Salado Audubon Center (3131 S. Central Ave.; 602-468-6470) for trail maps, bird brochures and a little history of the area. When a snowy egret casts its shadow over the desert, you’ll marvel that this was once a wasteland.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: July 1, 2010
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Photos: Getty Images; Cactus Adventures
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