A Last Resort
I grew up in Corpus Christi and spent countless hours on northern Padre Island, hurdling the waves, chasing crabs and collecting sand dollars. But visiting the island’s southern end always felt exciting and different. The sand seemed whiter, the water clearer and the waves bigger. The two-hour journey to the southern tip of Texas made the remote island all the more alluring. South Padre was more than a beach—it was a last resort. Recently, on assignment for Endless Vacation, I saw with a fresh eye how the island has changed. The string of condos and hotels grows ever longer; the manmade waves at Schlitterbahn Beach Waterpark now compete with the real thing. But the qualities that make the island distinctive—the minimalist landscape of sand, water and sky—remain timeless.

Catch of the Day
Towards evening, people invariably head to the Laguna Madre, the waterway that separates the island from the mainland, to watch and applaud the sunset. The island still has its share of characters, like Amazin’ Walter, the sandcastle wizard, and salty sea captains with fish stories to tell. For decades my in-laws owned a condo on South Padre Island, so my husband Dan and I spent many vacations there. On one occasion, Dan went out fishing on the Laguna Madre with his father and a friend. When my mother-in-law and I took a stroll to meet the boat on its return, several cats followed us onto the dock, meowing loudly. After tying up his boat, the skipper took the catch of speckled trout to a cleaning table, pulled out a sharp knife and expertly gutted and filleted the fish. Then he tossed the innards to the hungry cats, who obviously knew the routine. Suddenly, something moving across the water caught my eye. “What the heck is that?” I asked. “Shrimp,” the captain responded. Dozens of them skittered across the mirror-like surface, looking like tiny sea sprites in the dusk’s violet light.

Sand Dollars and Silver Coins
That kind of natural but almost magical experience explains why I keep returning. The mind-boggling variety of birds, encounters with sea creatures great and small, the daily celebration of sunrise and sunset, and the crashing waves that leave sand dollars on the same beaches where they once deposited silver coins from shipwrecked galleons—those are the true treasures of South Padre. 

EAT
Amberjack’s Bayside Bar & Grill
A casual but upscale spot, specializing in local seafood. 209 W. Amberjack St.; 956-761-6500; dinner for two, $50*

Louie’s Backyard

The place to eat and party on weekends; there’s dancing after 10 p.m. 2305 Laguna Blvd.; 956-761-6406; dinner for two, $55

Rovans Bakery & Restaurant
Tex-Mex and more from breakfast to dinner. 5300 Padre Blvd.; 956-761-3930; breakfast for two, less than $20

*Prices cover a three-course meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

PLAY
Go fish Dozens of guides offer fishing trips into the bay or the Gulf of Mexico to reel in tarpon, red snapper, amberjack and pompano. Rates start at $350, and while it may seem pricey, don’t forget that you’ll likely be coming back with dinner. Look for guides at fishspi.com or through the South Padre Island Convention and Visitors Bureau. 956-761-6433; sopadre.com

STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in South Padre Island include:

INVERNESS AT SOUTH PADRE

For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476

Also available: Cruises departing from Galveston, TX, aboard

ROYAL CARIBBEAN CRUISE LINES
CARNIVAL CRUISE LINES

Visit cruiserci.com or call 877-RCI-BOAT (877-724-2628).

OTHER HOTELS:

Sheraton South Padre Island Beach Hotel & Condominiums
This hotel lays claim to the largest swimming pool in South Texas and 251 rooms with balconies and bay views. 310 Padre Blvd.; 956-761-6551; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from $79

Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort
A 227-room hotel on the beach, next to the Schlitterbahn Waterpark. 100 Padre Blvd.; 956-761-5401; sunspreeresorts.com; doubles from $109

Peninsula Island Resort & Spa
This 39-room luxury resort is in South Padre’s secluded southern end. 340 Padre Blvd.; 800-761-2514; peninsulaislandresort.com, studio suites from $185

Radisson Resort South Padre Island

Two outdoor pools with waterfalls, seasonal kids’ programs and lighted tennis courts draw couples and families to this 192-room hotel. 500 Padre Blvd.; 956-761-6511; radisson.com; doubles from $105

Inn at Chachalaca Bend

Seven luxury guest rooms surrounded by 40 acres make up this peaceful inn. 20 Chachalaca Bend Dr., Los Fresnos; 956-233-1180; chachalaca.com; doubles from $145

NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.