Europe Stockholm, Sweden
Shopping: Chic Stockholm
The stylish neighborhood of Södermalm is bursting with designer stores—and some fine fried herring
BY DEBORAH BRANSCUM | ILLUSTRATION BY ANNIKA HUETT
From left: T-shirt at Lisa Larsson; lamp from Design Torget; cosmetics case, 10 Gruppen.

Södermalm, a densely populated island just south of  Stockholm’s city center, was once a working-class slum. But hip young artists started moving in three decades ago, slowly transforming it into a vibrant neighborhood. Today, its smartly appointed shops are a great place to browse for distinctively Scandinavian fashion, housewares and furniture.

Get there by taking the red or green line to Slussen, and start your shopping on Götgatan Street. Then head south to the trendy SoFo area (south of Folkungagatan). Don’t plan your trip for Sunday, when many Stockholm stores are closed.

If hunger strikes, stop by Södermalmstorg, the city’s oldest plaza, and visit the famous Nystekt Strömming herring wagon (open 11–3 weekdays). The $6 special buys you two pieces of tasty fried herring with mashed potato and cucumber salad. Another option is Louie Louie (13 Bondegatan), a lively café/record shop. Try the sun-dried tomato sandwich with pesto and cottage cheese. The charmingly scruffy Café String (38 Nytorgsgatan) serves a great weekend breakfast buffet and the best Swedish pancakes—reason alone to visit Södermalm.


1. Filippa K
23 Götgatan; 011-46-8-556-98-585; filippa-k.se
This Swedish label’s store sells youthful but elegant women’s fashions: a pale beige silk trapeze dress that bottoms out in a flirty ruffle ($370); Filippa K’s signature take on the chambray shirtdress ($192); a blue short-sleeve top in luscious, lightweight cashmere ($280).


2. 10-Gruppen
25 Götgatan; 011-46-8-643-2504; tiogruppen.com
Vivid canvas and oilcloth textiles are the focus of this 37-year-old collective, where current patterns include “Jamaica II,” a lovely leaf motif, and the chic check-and-dot “Kinji.” Travelers snap up the cosmetics cases ($30), shoulder bags and computer cases, all in a variety of eye-popping fabrics. There’s even a modern ironing-board cover ($28).



3. DesignTorget
31 Götgatan; 011-46-8-462-3520; designtorget.se
Only the Swedes could bring together such items as a plastic banana shell (to minimize bruising while you travel, of course), a black pacifier decorated with skull and crossbones ($12), and a picnic jacket for wine ($16)—just slip it around a chilled bottle to keep it cool.


4. Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
46B Bondegatan; 011-46-8-642-80-55; shoerepair.se
Despite the name, this shop sells mostly men’s and women’s fashions. Look for sensual, minimalist pieces like a gathered-back black top with origami-inspired details ($147) by awarding-winning design duo Astrid Olsson
and Lee Cotter.


5. Lisa Larsson Second Hand 
48 Bondegatan; 011-46-8-643-6153; lisalarsson.com
Magazine stylists flock to this local landmark for high-style vintage wear. A recent visit unearthed a Saint Laurent Rive Gauche knit top in harvest colors ($37) and a disco-era white leather belt studded with silver squares and colored stones ($14).


6. Formsak
21 Södermannagatan; 011-46-8-643-0333; formsak.se
Helena Skolling handcrafts silver, gold, semiprecious stones and tinted diamonds into deeply romantic jewelry. Prices start at $65; the most expensive item, a $3,650 bracelet, is knit from hair-thin strands of silver wire and covered with diamond-accented silver flowers—it’s a gleaming wonder.


7. Coctail  
71 Skånegatan; 011-46-8-642-0740; coctail.nu
This pastel palace of kitsch sells polka-dot Mary Janes ($74), watering cans made of exotic food tins from Asia ($15), and wacky adhesive bandages in pirate, ninja and sushi patterns ($10). 


8. Sneakersnstuff
124 Åsögatan; 011-46-8-743-0322; sneakersnstuff.com
This is the spot for footwear: limited-edition Pumas, Nikes and Adidas. SNS also sells bright green Evelina W flats ($87) and brown leather Tournament sneakers ($117) for men, both from the Swedish label Tretorn. The store’s sneaker-obsessed owners even have come up with their own design for New Balance: The shoe makes its exclusive debut here in late summer.

Published: July/August 2007 Issue 
Photos, from left: Johanna Riklund; Jens Bangsbo; 10 Swedish Designers.
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