Landmarks: Historic Suds
Taverns with a pedigree: Bootleggers, antlers for whiskey, and a presidential roast duck
BY AUSTIN KELLEY
The back room at McSorley’s Old Ale House in New York (left); the bar at Chicago’s John Barleycorn.

Museums and battlefields aren’t the only places where travelers can explore America’s past. There’s plenty of heritage—and good eating and drinking—to be found in taverns and saloons. Politicians, poets and pirates all hatched plans in our nation’s watering holes. As sociologist Ray Oldenburg puts it, “our democracy had its origins in . . . local taverns.” And why not, when historymakers can sup on Yankee pot roast and gentleman’s pye—braised venison, lamb and duck in a pastry crust—while sipping a fine mead, er, pinot noir. When you walk into any of these eight spots, you’ll be transported to colonial times or the Wild West, to where Jack London drank ale or George Washington dined on roast duck. So sidle up to the bar, and soak in the history.

McSorley’s Old Ale House
 “I was sitting in McSorley’s,” wrote e.e. cummings. “Outside it was New York and beautifully snowing/ Inside snug and evil.” Sawdust covers the floors, and dusty ephemera and clippings cover the walls. For lunch, try the ham sandwich or a cheeseburger. The beer? McSorley’s Ale, of course. If it’s snowing, you may never want to leave. 15 E. 7th St., New York City; 212-473-9148

Gadsby’s Tavern
George Washington drank here. So did Thomas Jefferson, James Madison and John Adams. Today, this 18th-century tavern is a restaurant and a museum. Take an afternoon tavern tour ($4), then head to the dining room for colonial storytellers and waiters in period knickers dishing out “George Washington’s favorite,” cider-glazed duckling with smoked bacon spoonbread ($24). 138 N. Royal St., Alexandria, VA; 703-548-1288

Bevo Mill
Established in 1917 by August A. Busch, this replica Flemish windmill-cum-dining hall is lined with antlers and tile wall panels that depict frolicking cherubs. For lunch, eat sauerbraten ($8) in Busch’s private dining room, the Mill Room. Waitstaff sport lederhosen and dirndl. “Think St. Pauli Girl,” says partner David Gilbert. 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis; 314-481-2626

Buckhorn Saloon & Museum
Back in 1881, the Buckhorn accepted deer antlers for whiskey. While it’s strictly money these days, the saloon still retains the original “hunting-trophy” look despite a move to airier digs. At the adjoining museum, kids can expect more taxidermy as well as portraits fashioned out of rattlesnakes. Afterwards, order a sarsaparilla and chicken-fried steak while you relive the days when Teddy Roosevelt and Pancho Villa ate in the old tavern. 318 E. Houston St., San Antonio; 210-247-4000

Bucket of Blood Saloon
With its colorful Tiffany chandeliers, antique rifles and live ragtime music, this Nevada bar evokes the silver rush era, when it was a meeting place for Comstock Lode prospectors. The country band Comstock Cowboys plays most weekend afternoons. Sit by the picture window in back, sipping Bucket of Blood red lager. 1 South C St., Virginia City, NV; 775-847-0322

Heinold’s First & Last Chance Bar
Built from the timbers of a whaling ship, this waterfront shack has been serving sailors and ferry-riders since 1883. It still has the old mahogany bar, the pot-belly stove and the working gas lanterns under which Jack London plotted novels. “Everything’s original except the chairs,” says owner Carol Brookman. That includes the floors—so steeply angled since the 1906 earthquake that you’ll feel as if you’ve set sail for uncharted waters. 48 Webster St. in Jack London Square, Oakland, CA; 510-839-6761

John Barleycorn
During Prohibition, bootleggers used the Chinese laundry at the back of this pub as an entrance. Later, bank robber John Dillinger was a regular. Original tin ceilings and columns, along with a collection of antique model ships, create a distinctive backdrop for the raucous crowd, microbrews and delectable burgers ($8). Note: Three locations; only this one, in Lincoln Park, is historic. 658 W. Belden Ave., Chicago; 773-348-8899

Longfellow’s Wayside Inn
“As ancient is the Hostelry, as any in the land may be,” wrote Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. And that was 1863, when the poet set a story-cycle in this cozy rest stop. Opened in 1716, the Wayside is the oldest continuously operating inn in the country. Settle into one of seven fireside dining rooms for a “Yankee Surf and Turf”: prime rib and lobster pie. At $26, it’s more than Longfellow would’ve paid, but now there’s there’s indoor plumbing. 72 Wayside Inn Rd., Sudbury, MA; 978-443-1776

 

Published: Nov/Dec 2007 Issue 
Photos: JENNIFER ARNOW; CHRISTOPHER MCGAURAN
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