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Shopping: Marrakech Express
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The quick way to tame this Moroccan city's chaotic medina, souks and more
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BY RICHARD ALLEMAN | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASPER JAMES
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In the Souk des Babouches; brassware for sale; Rahba Kedima square.
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A single shop in Marrakech often sells an overwhelming array of stuff: brass lanterns, silk slippers, Berber jewelry, pottery, candles, carpets and on and on. This Moroccan city is filled with countless such shops, from the teeming souks (markets) to the smart emporiums of Guéliz. Add a maze-like medina and a cultural acceptance—nay, insistence—on haggling and things can seem downright daunting. Successful retail therapy here depends upon knowing what you want and where to find it. We've laid out a master plan, but expect to stumble upon some unexpected treasures. Surprise, after all, is one of the joys of shopping in this market-mad city.
THE GREAT SOUK
After mingling with the acrobats and orange-juice sellers in the famous Place Jemaa el Fna, dive into the Great Souk, just off the square. A vast network of bazaars, it's filled with shopkeepers vying for your attention: Before you know it, you might be sitting down to mint tea and negotiating the price for a carpet you don't really want. But don't even think of visiting Marrakech without seeing the souks—they're a vital part of the city's heart. The following loop takes in some of the best sights.
From the northwestern edge of Jemaa el Fna, enter the souk to the left of the Café Argana. Bear left at the small square (Place Bab Ftouh) and pass through an arch to Rue Laksour. On your left is a tiny boutique named Beldi (#9 and #11) that dresses some of the city's most fashionable denizens in chic mandarin-collared woolen jackets for men ($200) and elegant caftans for women ($500+). Laksour feeds into the attractive Rue Mouassine, whose shops all sell a similar assortment of lanterns, pottery, candlesticks, brass trays, mirrors and bright-colored silk fabrics. Essence des Sens (#52) specializes in beauty products made from Morocco's magical argan oil (better than Botox?).
Farther along, the jewelry shop Alyed Gallery (#66) overflows with Berber pendants, bracelets and brooches at fixed prices; expect to pay $30 and up for a silver pendant, $50 for a turquoise necklace. Just beyond, turn right at the Mouassine Mosque, with its massive brass doors, to find the Souk des Teinturiers (dyers' market), where freshly dyed yarn and fabrics hang across the narrow streets.
Equally colorful is the nearby Souk des Babouches, devoted to the classic pointed-toe Moroccan slippers. The proprietor at El Mardi Boujemaa (81 Souk Smata) speaks English, sells at fair prices ($10–$25) and has a rich variety of slippers. At Rahba Kedima square, take a break at Café des Epices, a cool three-level café. Order a mint tea ($1.25) and watch the action in the spice stalls edging the square and the makeshift souk at the center, where bags and baskets come in all shapes and sizes (from $5).
A whole other level of retail is nearby at La Porte d'Or (115 Souk Semmarine). One of the city's most important antiques shops, it has shown and sold Berber carpets, jewelry and furnishings to the likes of Hillary Clinton, Mel Gibson and Sean Connery. If you fancy a camel-bone walking stick ($200), it's just the place.
When you're back at the southeastern edge of Rhaba Kedima square, turn right onto the relatively tranquil Rue Rahba Kedima to find the low-key Art Ouarzazate (#15). Here Mohamed Nait Mbarek has some of the city's best carpets at very fair prices: from under $100 for a 3'x5' kilim to $400 for a thick-piled 6'x9' Berber. (Note: Bigger shops in the souk accept credit cards for larger purchases. While some places ship, you may avoid customs problems by carrying your purchases home with you—even if you have to pay extra luggage fees.)
Rue Rahba Kedima continues on to the busy Derb Debbachi, where a right turn will put you back on Place Jemaa el Fna, quite possibly more weighed down than when you started out.
THE MELLAH
South of the medina (the walled part of the city), between the Bahia Palace and the Badii Palace, the vibrant former Jewish quarter called the Mellah offers excellent shopping. For spices, stalls outside and just inside the Bab Es Salam Market display cumin and curries in distinctive cones. If you're planning to recreate some Moroccan dishes back home, buy a 100-gram bag ($2) of ras al hanout, the secret mix of spices that flavors most tajines—meat stews cooked in conical-topped ceramic pots. To the right of the market's entrance, next to Le Tanjia restaurant, the little shop Aya's sells hand-embroidered silk and cotton shirts and tunics for men and women (from $90). A stylish made-to-measure caftan can run $700. Measuring takes minutes, and in a pinch you might have it the next day.
Steps away, the Place des Ferblantiers (tinworkers' souk) is edged with ateliers making and selling Moroccan lanterns—very stylish at the moment. Youssef & Abdelhadi (#36) offers high-quality lanterns at good prices ($15–$25 for a medium-sized weathered metal number; $20–$30 for brass). Original Design, tucked in a corner of the souk at #47, carries inexpensive gifts: tiny tajines (ceramic pots, $2), soap dishes ($3), embroidered napkins ($4). More good gifts are around the corner at La Passementerie Annajar (1 Touareg), which specializes in tassels (light and easy to pack), from tiny ($1) to foot-longs that resemble horses' tails ($15). Back at the Place des Ferblantiers, stop for a drink on the roof terrace at Kosybar (#47). It overlooks the square and the crumbling salmon-colored walls—many crowned with storks nests—of the ancient Badii Palace.
GUÉLIZ
Marrakech's colonial-era Ville Nouvelle is a separate city with art-deco architecture, French sidewalk cafés (Café les Négociants is the classic), hip restaurants and great shopping. Some of the best shops lie on little Rue de la Liberté. Atika (#34) lures savvy shoe shoppers with well-made Tods-like loafers in a myriad of colors—most under $40 a pair. Place Vendome (at Avenue Mohamed V) is a top spot for Moroccan leather goods: wallets ($20), pants ($200), handsome valises (from $350). Steps away, L'Orientaliste (#11 and #15) is crammed with a well-edited and affordable selection: delicate tea glasses ($6), silver-edged bowls ($8), as well as handsomely framed maps.
A block away, La Porte d'Orient (9 Blvd. El Mansour Eddahbi) wows serious collectors with its treasures, some hidden in vast warehouses behind a secret door: carpets, marble fountains, studded kasbah doors and magnificent coffered ceilings. This is one of Marrakech's ultimate antiques shops—a place to see, if not to buy. And for oenophiles, the new L'Atelier du Vin (87 Rue Mohamed Baqal) has a range of offerings from Morocco's surprisingly impressive wine industry.
IS THAT YOUR FINAL OFFER?
Though fixed prices can be found even in the medina, bargaining still dominates the souks. If a merchant demands a sky-high amount, just turn and leave. He'll no doubt try to lure you back with a lower price. Hate haggling? Head to Ensemble Artisanal (Avenue Mohamed V), a government-run shop near the Koutoubia Mosque where the fixed prices usually reflect about a 20-percent markup over the best prices you'll get in the souk. Even if you don't buy here, you can get an idea of fair pricing before you brave the souks.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN
MARRAKECH INCLUDE:
INCLUB PALMERAIE
MARRAKECH PALM CLUB
RÉSIDENCE AMINA
For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:
LA MAMOUNIA
The legendary hotel reopens
this fall after a three-year
makeover, promising the last
word in style and luxury—from
Michelin-starred chefs to a
27,000-square-foot spa.
Ave. Bab Jdid; 011-212-524-
388-600; mamounia.com;
doubles from $680
RIAD NOIR D'IVOIRE
One of the city's most
opulent riad (courtyard) hotels
lavishly mixes Moroccan and
Indian decor. 31-33 Derb
Jdid; 011-212-524-380-975;
noir-d-ivoire.com; doubles
from $250
RIAD HAYATI
A charming four-room riad
with excellent Moroccan and
French cuisine. 27 Derb
Bouderba; 011-44-777-
043-1194; riadhayati.com;
doubles from $250
LES JARDINS DE
LA KOUTOUBIA
A 100-room beauty with a
lush garden, pool and great
location off Place Jemaa el
Fna. 26 Rue de la Koutoubia;
011-212-524-388-800;
lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com;
doubles from $295
JNANE MOGADOR
One of the city's best bargains:
an attractive courtyard mansion
with 17 spartan rooms.
116 Riad Zitoune Kedim;
011-212-524-426-324;
jnanemogador.com; doubles
from $67
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Sept/Oct 2009 Issue
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